Rock Route from Minaret Lake, fun scramble with the nice little class 4 step guarding the summit. Gorgeously rugged area, don't know why it took me so long to make my first visit. The rock was also pretty good I thought, yeah there's a lot of loose rock around, but there was always also a lot of solid rock around too. So just stick to the solid.
Tried the traverse to Eichorn but chickened out at the crazy exposed ledge traverse at the low point on the ridge, as reported by Bob Burd in his 2006 Sierra Challenge ascent. I regret now that I didn't even try the start of it, to see if maybe it was more secure than it looked from the ledge 40 feet away. But it looked so bad at the time that I didn't even want to bother negotiating the final short stretch of ridge over to the start of it.
Had a good time climbing this peak. Camped at Cecile Lake the previous night. Had some difficulty getting to the start of the route, but once in the chute it was mostly very enjoyable Class 3 on solid rock. No trouble downclimbing the Class 4 on the ridge - we stayed where it was less exposed and used the excellent handholds to lower ourselves down to the good feet. Brief stay on the summit in perfect weather. For some reason, the chute seemed much looser and less fun on the way down. Choose your route carefully!
This route is a gem. Definitely one of the classic climbs in the high Sierra.
Lights marching on a winding forest path,
Their destination - a certain finger of the Earth
That reaches out to the sky
But dares not to touch.
Mirrors of lakes, each with a deeper blue,
Each with a colder feel.
Inverted images of someone's dreams
To be fulfilled or spared...
Patches of flowering green,
Patches of white with treacherous incline.
Then, only rocks
Loose, steep and seemingly without end -
The essence of the route,
The Rock Route of Clyde Minaret.
The ridge, the tricky downclimb
With gaping abyss at your back
And finally the rock, above which -
And a strange longing to call out
Like a muezzin...
Did the Class 4 route on a Sierra trip with SuperDave. This, along with Russell are perhaps my two favorite non technical routes on peaks.
If careful route finding is used, much of this route can be kept to Class 3. HOWEVER, it is very easy to wander into Class 4 terrain in many places. In either case, there is what I call "indirect exposure" along much of the route (a slip can be corrected, but if not quickly it could turn into a big fall). I would recommend a solid head and decent Class 4 experience for this route.
Anyhow, great scrambling route and nice views. A little long on the approach, but basically all of it on trail. Windy day, but fortunately from the opposite direction- only noticed on the summit ridge.
Day 2 of alt Sierra Challenge 2013 with Laura M. and Michael G. Gorgeous day with snow field easily bypassed. Saw SAR chopper on rescue of climber on east face. Pictures & Story
Fun little dayhike outing with a bunch of summitpost goofballs. Summit groping included (thanks toxo). Nice scramble, very loose and dangerous rock. We were smothered by smoke in all surrounding areas, and thunderstorms were suppose to be great risk, but we never had a single drop of rain fall on us. A nice clearing of blue sky stayed over us during the entire climb. Great views from summit of the other minarets, but visibility was reduced because of smoke. Did this dayhike after 3 hours of sleep fresh from a 14 hour drive back home from Colorado. Love living on the east side! Adventure galore!
Day-hike of SE face, with direct start. Fun outing.
Climbed the Rock Route with Carlos. Great day in the mountains and fun scramble!
What an awesome climb. Sawtooth Sean and I hiked to Cecile Lake from Devil’s Postpole trailhead. Used axe/crampons to cross the snowfield, which was large this year, then some excellent scrambling up the rock route. Some airy moves on the summit ridge. A truly fantastic peak. Camped at Cecile, then hiked out to Agnew Meadows the next day. Trip Report
Stopped @ ridge downclimb from rock route. Looked hairy and couldn't see and easy way, though there probably is a "4th" class way. We didn't bring a rope and were doing it in a day. After heavy drinking the night before, plus Matthes Crest, N. Ridge of Conness, and Tenaya in the 3 days prior our nerves were a little shot and we decided to go with our gut feeling and turned back without regret. I DO want to come back and get this peak for real maybe via the SE face. Among other peaks in the area.
A fantastic route. Easier than I expected but a great climb all around. Needed crampons and ax to reach the base, and good rock from there. Reminded me a lot of Middle Palisade, except tons better (a little steeper and lacking the obscene amounts of deadly softball sized rocks everywhere). Downclimb on the ridge was easy, I found the crux to be about 20 feet below the ridge, but not a very exposed area.
Got to the base from the glacier, coming from Ritter. Fun climbing, but I was tired. Amazing views -- I need to climb the others now.
Epic scramble w/ snow-covered loose rock, turned into all-nite hike. Beautiful peak and great fun.
climbed with apachedino
ridgeline about 30 ft below summit
wasnt feeling the downclimb to summit along ridge
Great climb with awesome views
Followed Dirk (diggler) on my classic #4! Very pleasurable climbing thanks to Dirk's efficient lead. Weather was beautifully calm. Love this slick metamorphic rock with lots of tiny cracks. Descended via the Rock Route, part of which under headlamps. A long, exhilarating day. This is now my favorite area of the whole High Sierra, the Minarets reminds me of the rock on Mt Kenya.
Attempt with Megan. Instead of starting at 9 (an hour after I'd planned), we should have started at 7 or so. The follower pack was making things miserable for her & slowing us down, so I 'hauled' it (hand over hand) for 2 shortened pitches, as they were considerably harder (.9 & .9+) than the 1st we did with her wearing it (.8). Getting to the top of the traditional 2nd pitch at 13.00, I reasoned that if we kept on going at that rate, we'd be headed for an epic, so we bailed (after 'pitch' 3).
At any rate, the area is one of the most beautiful in the Sierra, the peak is spectacular (a fitting testament to Mr. Clyde), & the face & climb (well, at least the first 2 pitches) stellar. I think the direct start is the only way to go (quality of climbing & aesthetically; we never managed to locate the '5.7' face original start anyway).
As the Governator would say, "Ah'll be back!!"
15 August, '9- came back & did this, with G Funk. One of the best climbs I've done. First 2 pitches of the direct variation (like last time) were phenomenal. Despite my misgivings about the large number of options available after the traverse pitch (where the direct variation meets up with the original line), once I picked a line, everything flowed great. Climbing was sustained, exposed, & just a blast. Running some of the pitches together with a 70m rope made things faster- recommended. Started route at 8.02, summited at 19.02- long (but great) day! Descent sucked- steep, $#itty rock, & good amount of exposure- was glad when we finally made it back to terra firma. Being on that funky metamorphic rock, with the other minarets surrounding you, you almost think you're in some other range! A true classic (Classic #7), & another great climb with ya, bro!