Clyde Spires Climber's Log

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Deb - Aug 30, 2018 1:28 am Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2018

Three Summits  Sucess!

Daria and I hoofed out to Clyde Spires and enjoyed a day of wonderful scrambling and terrible descent from Wallace Col. Tagged East Spire via south ridge. Tagged West Spire via east face, probably 5.5 climbing but quite exposed. Tagged Crumbly Spire via east ridge traverse. Painful descent complete with rock avalanche over my legs and some unexpected flip and roll; I’m pretty beat up but happy.


dshoshone - Jun 23, 2008 2:31 pm Date Climbed: Jun 21, 2008

S. Ridge  Sucess!

Did a traverse from Picture Peak to Wallace, to Crumbly Spire, West Spire, then to East Clyde Spire.
No register on W.Spire,on my way up I noticed pieces of PVC so I assume the register was blown off and destroyed.
E. Spire did have a register container but no paper or pencil,I wish I had read the post below before hand about the register.


graham - Nov 25, 2005 2:11 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: Aug-9-05  Sucess!

Tagged the East Spire peak during the 2005 Sierra Challenge. A stout 4th class move off the deck to get up the summit blocks. Saving the West Spire for another day.

Michael Graupe

Michael Graupe - Sep 27, 2005 5:06 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: August 9, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed the with Bob, Mark, Rick and Matthew during the 2005 Sierra Challenge. Summited the East Spire and then traversed over to the West Spire. Just touched the top of the summit block but chickend out on the difficult exposed move to the very top.


PellucidWombat - Sep 17, 2005 7:01 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: August 9th, 2005  Sucess!

Summitted this peak w/ Bob Burd & Co. on the Sierra Challenge. A fun scramble with some interesting routefinding on the approach. I climbed up and down some interesting 4th class offwidth cracks beside the class 3 variation leading to the summit block from the south.

Bob Burd

Bob Burd - Sep 6, 2005 9:28 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge (ascent) / West Ridge (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2005  Sucess!

Day 5 of the 2005 Sierra Challenge. We had five on the summit - pretty good for a peak that gets climbed less than once a year. I thought the East Spire was more interesting, but the West Spire was the tougher of the two only because of the final move onto the summit block. Similar, but not as difficult as the final move onto Clarence King. Trip Report

Matthew Holliman

Matthew Holliman - Aug 17, 2005 1:24 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge (ascent) / West Ridge (descent) Date Climbed: Aug 9, 2005  Sucess!

Climbed Clyde Spires East via its west side (easy, exposed, and fun--Secor's "difficult slab climb" description is baffling), descending the even easier third class east side via a convenient keyhole. Clyde Spires West was a good deal more challenging, with some slightly awkward chimneys to surmount, and I opted to make do with just tagging the final (ostensibly class 4) standalone summit block from its lower neighbour rather than risk the last exposed move (and subsequent desperate downclimb) to gain the top. Still not sure how that higher block could be climbed without rock shoes.

Continued traversing along the ridge with Bob, finding some loose, sketchy fourth class on the worst rock I'd ever encountered in the Sierra (at least until climbing Kearsarge Pinnacles later in the week). Finally bailed out somewhere around Wallace Col. That ridge between Clyde Spires and Mt. Wallace is an accident waiting to happen.

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Sep 30, 2002 12:22 pm

Route Climbed: North Couloir Date Climbed: July 6, 1980

Britt Reeves and I climbed this route and found it to be fun ice climbing followed by devious mixed climbing over 5.5 frost shattered rock. I used a giant snowcone for a belay anchor. Spine tingling fun!

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