Page Type Page Type: Trip Report
Date Date Climbed/Hiked: Jan 1, 2009
Activities Activities: Trad Climbing
Seasons Season: Winter

Christmas Wknd.

Why, ArizonaWHY? WHY? WHY?

User Profile ImageFallout intensity contours?
Sheepshead DomeSnowed Out

Drive, drive, drive. Through the snowstorms of northern Oregon and the rains of the Willamette Valley. Slip chain-free through the checkpoints in the Siskiyous and dodge jackknifed tractor trailers in the Trinity Alps; snowstorms and spindrifts in northern Cali. Push through the dust storms of Central Valley. A DUI checkpoint outside of Bakersfield and automated photo radars in Phoenix. We pass border patrol checkpoints and a short 1560 miles (or 24 hours) after leaving home we arrive in Arizona's West Cochise Stronghold. A solid grade V push. Heads still buzzing with highway noise, we wake up to rain on the morning of day 2. Rain turns to snow overnight and day 3 finds us at the Sheepshead trailhead staring at the slabby formation now covered with 2 inches of the white shit. 25F is not psyching us up for climbing either. Blondie has fun playing in the snow for an hour and then we head back. On the evening of day 4 we’re back home. Thank goodness for audio books.

New Year's Wknd.

Mystery Of The DesertMystery Of The Desert
Mystery Of The DesertMystery Of The Desert
Warpath DomeWarpath Dome

The SheepsheadMuttonhead (left)
Mystery Of The DesertMystery Of The Desert

Three days later, we do it again. Arguably in inferior style as this time we resort to flying into Phoenix. Three days of beautiful, sunny weather and temperatures hovering in the upper 60’s. We have not climbed much since the early fall and even back then it was the "alien" European stuff. We feel stiff and generally out of it but have a great time nonetheless fondling the sun-bathed granite of the Cochise Stronghold. We go for (what we hope will be) the less ambitious ticks starting with the very fun Mystery Of The Desert (5.9) on Muttonhead Dome (three out of four stars). Easy approach and varied and well-protected climbing. Next, we do the semi-classic Warpath (5.9-). Good climbing (well protected where it counts & a bit runout where it’s easier) but a somewhat painful (90 minute?) approach as the trail seems to have disappeared in catclaw acacia growth. Now bushwhacking and a pint of blood seem to be the required toll. We do most of the El Cautivo line on Out-Of-Towners Dome (maybe??) but can’t be sure if we were actually on route. We finish off the outing on the Nightstalker (5.9) pitch (a hard crux move I thought…) on the cool-shaped Owl formation just as the weather begins to deteriorate. We kill the remaining hours of the outing checking out Saguaro N.M. and the bumpiest-flight-we’ve-endured-to-date takes us back to the snowy Portland. Our luggage joins us the following evening.


Gift From CochisePrevious Cochise Fun

Early 2002: rained out (part of longer road-trip).
Jan. 2005: Moby Dick (3-day road trip from SLC).
Dec. 2005: Warpaint & Wasteland (part of weeklong road trip).
Dec. 2006: sprained ankle at base of a route. No climbing. (4-day road trip from Portland).
Feb. 2007: Peacemaker.
Nov. 2007: popped shoulder midway up P1 of Endgame. ER & no climbing.
Dec. 2007: Absinthe Of Mallet (4-day road trip from Portland ).
Dec. 2008: rained and then snowed out. No climbing (4-day road trip from Portland).
Jan. 2009: Couple of routes.

Us: 5
Cochise: 4


Post a Comment
Viewing: 1-6 of 6

Deltaoperator17 - Jan 6, 2009 10:38 am - Voted 10/10

Nice Report

Step out of your comfort zone, let the snow be your friend.


rpc - Jan 6, 2009 11:47 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Nice Report

thanks Steve but I dunno about the snow thing...

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Jan 6, 2009 2:25 pm - Voted 10/10

report card

Determination A+
Luck D-
That is a tough chronological story mate, but impressed with your fortitude.


rpc - Jan 6, 2009 2:40 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: report card

:) thanks Dow. Everytime we do this sh.t (i.e. spend 50+ hrs. in the car driving there), we swear it's the last!! But then the rains arrive in the PNW and crazy re-enters my brain.


klwagar - Jan 6, 2009 10:23 pm - Voted 10/10

Doesn't matter

I love looking at climbing pictures so thanks for some good ones. I love your snowed in photo with your dog dancing.


rpc - Jan 7, 2009 12:02 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Doesn't matter

Hi K. - thank you very much for the good word :)

Viewing: 1-6 of 6



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