We intended to climb Core Dubious but after the first mixed pitch (started with a single bolt belay) I decided to do a hard crack through a small overhang (has a piton at the bottom of it). This pitch took quite a while and burnt up a lot of our time.
Once we gained the first snow ledge we decided to do a variation of Integrale. We aimed for the left facing corner system somewhere in the middle of the face. 4 pitches later we ended up not far to the right of the summit. Along the route was the odd bolt and many pitons. Fun climbing with lots of good trad placements.
super fun! great walk down the ridge too!
This route was a lot of fun. The 5.7 crack felt more like a 5.6 and we did the purple line in the topo. It wasn't so bad apart from some loose blocks I didn't touch. Also rapelled the route while 3 teams finished climbing a very steep route on the direct east face of Loder. The rockfall falling down upon us was quite bad since many other parties were also above us. Great route though, with a beautiful summit.
We started around 9 AM , thinking to get to the base of the climb in 1 hour. It was snowing heavily and it had been snowing all night, no visibility of Goat Mountain or Loder Peak whatsoever...We lost the trail in the approach and wondered for about 2 hours.
We found some ice that we though was the beginning of the route...we were wrong after two pitches of low angle ice we realized we were in the wrong spot, we came down and went in search of the real climb.
After traversing high on the scree we found the climb having bypassed already the first 2 pitches of easy ice, we started from there on steeper ice some being 80 degrees probably. We reached the big bowl were the ice route ends, and from there we started on the first pitch of rock witch with all the snow fallen the night before and still fallin turned out to be quite difficult, at the end of what we though was the first pitch, we banged in a piton and bailed because it was getting to late....
It was a fun day even if a bit frustrating... It will be for the next time....