Coming over the big roof onto...

Coming over the big roof onto The Shield, El Capitan.


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noah - Mar 19, 2004 2:42 pm - Hasn't voted


i know next to nothing about aid climbing but can you tell me, that piton looks like it is hardly in (and should be tied off), is this a normal kind of thing...speed (of placement / cleaning) over safety of pro.

P.s great photo

Craig Peer

Craig Peer - Mar 19, 2004 3:57 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: question

Good question ( and you have a good eye ). First off, that was most likely a sawed off angle ( it looks like a 1" angle ), most likely in a hole of a pin scar. And I would say that the pin angled downward, so if you tried to tie it off, your tie off loop would have a tendency to slide off the end of the pin! It really is more secure than it looks ( or not but there wasn't an alternative ). It's all about getting the best placement you can without taking too much time.

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