Complete Southwest Ridge

Overview

This route report describes the variation to the standard route approached from the Cascade Pass side (Sahale Arm). This ridge, when gained at its lowest point, provides about 5X the amount of scrambling than the standard route with good exposure, fun knife edges, and good rock.

Getting There

Follow the approach given for the Sahale Glacier route. Ascend the glacier about half way up then look for a notch at the base of the lowest point on the southwest ridge. Now angle up and to the left towards the notch on 50 degree glacier.

Route Description

From the notch, scramble directly up the ridgecrest over several gendarmes. Good exposure of the lower section with several nice knife edge parts and a big dropoff on the left. Pass the most difficult gendarme on the right. Continue scrambling up the ridgecrest directly to the summit. Terrain is mostly 4th class with a couple moves of low 5th.

For the descent you have a couple otions. We downclimbed this ridge back to our packs. You could do the standard rappel down the south face or downclimb the normal route on the north side then traverse the glacier back to your packs.

Essential Gear

Ice Axe
Crampons
Rope (optional)
A few small to medium pieces of gear (optional)

External Links

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Images

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