Consolation, 5.8

6th Pitch- 30m- 5.8/ The crown jewel pitch of this climb, no question. Walk along a foot ledge via an awesome exposed left traverse. Few hand holds add to the excitement as you “walk the wire” if you will. Eventually start climbing via features aiming for a station above a small ledge to the upper left of the wall right before the arête. Clip a double runner here on this station (used for a different route) and continue around the arête via the crux move of the climb. The guide book has you believe that you descend at this point and then traverse the arête. That is wrong. Stay par or even climb up to a squatting position and turn the arête to a ledge and bolt belay on the other side.
Consolation, 5.8, 7 Pitches, Wully Wall, North Ghost, Ghost Wilderness Area, Canadian Rockies, August, 2008


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