Perfect mixed route with condition of very hard ice in route and above the Triangle too much snow (from the knees to the waist). We turned below the top ridge and descended through the right of north glacier.
One of the most beautiful routes I ever climbed! Good conditions, nice weather, but a bit busy.
Really nice route. A lot of mixted climb, some short passages with pure ice that day. We climbed only the Triangle of Tacul, without going to the very top of MB du Tacul.
The main issue was the descent. The risk of avalanches - especially on the NW face of MB du Tacul - was considerable. After one of our ropes broke, we needed to rappel down all along the western ridge of the Triangle. A long day... But successfull.
Climbed with Igi and Pawel.
Photo gallery here.
The night before it was snowing at the Cosmiques but at the time of our start at 4:15 AM from the Refuge (with my son Christoph and our guide Eric) the sky was clear and for the rest of the day, absolutely perfect weather and snow conditions. We did not encounter a single party for the entire ascent route but there were lots of climbers on the normal PD route back to the Cosmiques. Quite a bit of exposure on some of hard snow/ice pitches. A memorable climb!
5 hours up and down..
Climbed the Contamine-Grisolle on a beautiful day,the route is very nice and not difficult, simul climbed most oft he pitches.
Nice route in good condition. Used the climb for acclimatisation at the start of a week-long trip. No great difficulty. Ab'ed down western side of triangle on completion. Perfect weather. Recommended.