Cooper-Kor, V, 5.10

11th Pitch- 30m- 5.8R/ The “money” pitch. I challenge you to find a more unique alpine climbing setting (run out granite slab, glaciers, icefalls, spires, weather, etc!). Carefully traverse run out slab out right for 30 meters. You will have to step down on several occasions as it trends down and right. A whipper here will cost you some skin and maybe a backpack. I chose to smear the granite slab with my hands about a meter below the headwall itself. There are few features to work with at first but the traverse is fairly blank and by the time you start to get pretty damn nervous, you can step up to a shallow corner and clip a lone piton (2009). Continue down and over easier slab at that point to a cubical belay at the base of a more definitive corner. You can get in one solid .75” piece backed up with a piton (2009).
Cooper-Kor, V, 5.10, 18 Pitches, East Face of Pigeon Spire, Bugaboo Glacier Provincial Park, British Columbia, August, 2009

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BigRob

BigRob - Aug 31, 2009 12:44 am - Voted 10/10

Looks Cool

but call me a sissy, I like things to hold on to.

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Sep 1, 2009 6:57 am - Hasn't voted

Re: Looks Cool

lol, so do I Rob! I don't mind slab, but climbing straight out horizontally on wet granite? and even having to step down here and there? No pro? I am with you on this one....just kept my head down and focused...was glad it was over as I watched the 2nd go through the same emotions. Cheers.

CanadianSteve - Jul 1, 2010 3:40 pm - Hasn't voted

Yikes!

I don't mind slab but this looks just scary! Slab traverses make my stomach twist!

Dow Williams

Dow Williams - Jul 1, 2010 7:56 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Yikes!

It was a bit hairy I thought Steve....a pendulum fall there would have been some kind of painful and left me hanging free air under a huge roof....hand to man up for this one, cheers

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