Cooper Peak South Buttress Variation

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Trip Report
Colorado, United States, North America
Date Climbed/Hiked:
Sep 5, 2011
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78.27% Score
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Cooper Peak South Buttress Variation
Created On: Jan 23, 2012
Last Edited On: Jul 23, 2013

General Info

Cooper Peak
Elevation: 12,296’
Trailhead: Monarch Lake
Route:South Buttress Variation from Monarch Lake
Round Trip Mileage: Approximately 21
Climbers: Bryan Bergstrom and Tracy Roach
Date: September 5, 2011


From the Monarch Lake Trailhead, take the Cascade Trail for approximately 3.3 miles until you reach the Buchanan Pass Trail. Follow the Buchanan Pass Trail 2.2 miles until you reach the Gourd Lake/Buchanan Pass Trail junction. Follow the Gourd lake Trail 2.7 miles to the lake.

We skirted around the right side of Gourd Lake into this talus filled gulley:


One of the small ponds below Island Lake. There were some small rainbow trout in here.


Our view of Cooper Peak from the small pond:

Cooper Peak

Picking the line. I love looking up at mountains, picking a line that I know nothing about and just going.

S. Buttress Approach

Our Route. It had an estimated 500' vertical of technical climbing with 1500' of elevation gain.

Our Line

Our first pitch:


This is where I began the third pitch. From this point we traversed right onto the steeper rock. In between pitches this was a common sight; intermittent sections of 3rd class rock scattered with talus and boulders. The route was surprisingly solid.

Traverse Right

Looking down on Island Lake from higher up on the route. I was about 100' from the top of our climb at this point.

Looking down

This is the top of the South Buttress route, heading to the summit.

Top of South Buttress

A womans place is on top:



We descended the Southwest slopes. This was our view:


Further down with Gourd Lake in the background:

Heading down
The End
The End


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Viewing: 1-3 of 3
Sarah Simon

Sarah Simon - Jan 23, 2012 10:11 am - Voted 10/10

Looks like...

A beautiful day and a fun climb. Thanks for sharing the TR, Tracy!


Bill Reed

Bill Reed - Jan 25, 2012 8:24 pm - Voted 10/10

Nice report!!

That peak reminds me a little of Mt Toll. Looked like a great day for it, thanks for sharing your day!!

Foxy Long Bottoms

Foxy Long Bottoms - Jan 26, 2012 11:03 am - Hasn't voted

Thanks guys!

Bill, from certain aspects the buttress reminds me of Toll too.

Viewing: 1-3 of 3

Cooper Peak South Buttress Variation

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