Climbed with my buddy Jae under perfect conditions. We left a car at Timberline, drove around the mountain, and started hiking just after 5pm. By 8pm we were just beneath Tie-In rock and found a nice patch of sand to camp in. The next morning we left camp at 2am and climbed perfect snow to the summit. We were very slow however because we set pickets all the way up. A fall would be deadly from almost anywhere on the upper half of the route. We descended the South Side (Pearly Gates) and completed the full traverse.
Finally got to ski this line...it had been on my list for a while. Definitely a no-fall zone on the top half, but was fantastic corn for most of the descent!
We were lucky to get a cold wind to freeze up the route this late in the season. The snow was frozen the last 2,000 feet of the route making for great conditions.
Climbed the Spur just after Christmas with a friend. The weather was wonderful. We had a 2.5day window. The wind storm hit just as we were getting back to camp. (60mi/hr) We hunkered down in camp for the rest of the night and got out early morning. Here's pictures from the trip.
Solo'd route with Jess. We went down southside and traversed around the mountain at 9k to our camp on Cooper Spur. Perfect conditions except some strong wind toward the top.
I don't know why anyone would climb this in summer. We had bluebird skies and perfect snow conditions on this early March ascent. There was no need to rope up or set pro, the snow was great for kicking steps. We ended up carrying lots of things we never needed :). Steep and exhilarating towards the "Chimney." It was a perfect day all around.
Mike Weber and I soloed the Cooper Spur in 1975. We had good snow conditions and made it up this route in a little over 2 hours.
bad news in late season. too much rock fall. wasn't planning to head this route, however the chimneys turn into a rockchute. unrelyable rock and crap snow even at 4:30 am. rock fall all night was very intimidating. i camped too low; opptimal camping with early start at tie in rock(huge rock on the ride, you can see it from clowdcap, it's on the trail-can't miss it.)crystal clear day with outstanding view of Mt Adams. would not solo this ever again, but i'd love to return. carry over to hogs back and hich-hike to clowdcap.
Incredibly well-graded trail. One of these days I will bring gear and continue beyond Tie-In Rock up to the summit.
Initially intending on the Sunshine Route. Cooper Spur seemed the better option. No one else was on the northside of the mountain, giving us a nice remote feeling. Lots of wallowing in sloppy snow conditions in the Chimneys. Lightning strikes from the Gorge spiced things up as we raced to get up and over the summit. Great route.
solo'd this route in thawed conditions.
Encountered some decent rock and some crappy rock. Lots of exposed historical evidence along the way--old ropes, metal, and the old lookout near the summit.
Felt pretty confortable but recommend doing this route earlier in the year.