"Corda Molla is the Italian name that identifies the north ridge of Monte Disgrazia.
This is ridge connects Pizzo Ventina to Monte Disgrazia and it shares the north side of the mountain in two flanks: the northwest (glacier of Disgrazia and val Sissone), and the northeast, very complex (glacier della Vergine,glacier Ventina and val Ventina).
The real route start from Oggioni bivac(3151slm) placed on the edge of the ridge.Few years ago a new structure has been placed in the nearby, as replacement of the old one.
This is the strategic point to be reached first.And it's also a place where spend a night before the ascent.Bivouac Taveggia, 200 meters lower, is also a good place for rests.
The best place where leave the car and start the walk-up to the bivouacs is the hamlet of Chiareggio(1610slm).
Route DescriptionFirst day:
Start the hike from Chiareggio in the direction to Refuge Porro (1975 m) on a very easy trail also passable by 4X4s (1-1:15 h).
From there follow the entire Ventina valley, first on a moraine and then on the Ventina glacier pointing to Pizzo Cassandra. Almost half way along this glacier, leave the route for Pizzo Cassandra and turn right (west) avoiding the crevasses.
The route changes every year: Choose the best path up the slopes for the conditions.
A 50 meter wall connects these slopes with the upper glacier. On top of this wall, the Taveggia bivouac (2894 m) is the perfect place where to take a break (II/PD, 2-2:30 hours from Ref. Porro).
Past this bivouac, walk due north on the rather steep glacier, above which the Oggioni bivouac is located (PD+, 1:30 hours).
Wake up quite early. The route follows the north ridge all along, so it's difficult to lose it.
The elevation gain between the Oggioni bivouac and the summit is just 500 meters, but it's a constant up and down: That's why the route is named "Corda Molla", that is, "slacking rope".
The ridge is mostly icy, so cross to its right or left depending on the situation.
The angle increases in the last 200 meters. Leave the ice crest before reaching the summit rocks, and keep to the left (east).
Scramble up for 200 meters, choosing the best way in relation to the snow conditions. Reach the Rauzi bivouac first and then the summit (AD/AD+, 3-5 hours).
There are two main options for descending. Each of them requires a lot of time so do not underestimate it!
The easiest one is to follow the normal route (WNW ridge - PD). But in this way you end in another valley (Val Masino) which is not the one where you left the car (Val Malenco).
There is however a chance: during the descent along the normal route towards the ref.Ponti, before the end of it, take the direction to the pass "bocchetta Roma"(part of Sentiero Roma), than get into the "Val Cameraccio"(upper part of Val di Mello), than take the direction to "Passo di Mello", where the biv.Odello/Grandori. This pass permits to reach the Val Sissone situated on the northwest side of Monte Disgrazia, and at the end of the omonimous glacier, a path take back to the hamlet of Chiareggio.
This is a very long itinerary, suitable only when forced. Also difficult to discover without a map.
The most logical route is to get back to Porro refuge by the same way.
There are some rappels (20 meters each) which start near the Rauzi bivouac, thus on the western side of the "Corda Molla".
The last rappel lets you pass the schrund. From here walk down on the glacier towards South-West until you reach the lower part of Ventina glacier and thus the refuge.
This route is pretty difficult if you don't have a trace to follow: there are crevasses and seracs to avoid, plus a very short rappel on a rock island at a certain point. So PAY ATTENTION.
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