Corno del Pedertic/Sentinella del Pedertic

Corno del Pedertic/Sentinella del Pedertic

Page Type Page Type: Mountain/Rock
Location Lat/Lon: 46.19926°N / 10.72992°E
Additional Information County: Trentino
Activities Activities: Mountaineering, Trad Climbing, Sport Climbing
Seasons Season: Summer
Additional Information Elevation: 7651 ft / 2332 m
Sign the Climber's Log

Overview

Corno del Pedertìc 2332 m - together with the adjacent and lower Sentinella del Pedertìc (Sentry of Pedertìc) - is a fine peak culminating in a true tiny summit surrounded by beautiful granite peaks.  It's a minor summit, anyhow spectacular, belonging to the Presanella Group, South-Eastern sector (Val d'Amola) and located in Val d'Amola, not far from Rifugio Segantini, just above the Malga Vallina d'Amola. The variety of climbs offered by this latter valley is remarkable and makes it one of the most interesting valleys of the Presanella group from the point of view of rock climbing. They range from the classic climbs on Campanile di San Giusto to the East wall of Cima Presanella and to the modern routes on Cima Piccolina and Corno di Pedertic. This latter routes are an excellent introduction to the particular environment of this area.

Corno del Pedertic
Corno del Pedertic

The interest of this area is due both to the wonderful alpine setting and the fine climbs on a good quality of rock, the "tonalite", the typical rock of the Presanella Group. The "tonalite" is an intrusive magmatic rock having a composition similar to granites and granodiorites. This kind of rock was named in this way by the German geologist Gerhard vom Rath, who found it for the first time in the year 1857 on the Tonale Pass.

Corno and Sentinella del Pedertìc annotated view
Corno and Sentinella del Pedertic/figcaption>

From the point of view of the panoramic views, the position of these two peaks is particularly strategic, right in front of the Val d'Amola with the majestic main peak of the Presanella and in the opposite direction a spectacular view of the Brenta Dolomites.

Brenta Dolomites annotated view from Pedertich
Brenta Dolomites annotated view from Pedertich

Getting There

Road access

Val d'Amola scenery
Val d'Amola scenery

The road access is from Val Rendena, where a turn-off road allows to reach by car up to more than 2000 m of altitude (Vallina d'Amola).

Getting to Val Rendena

Coming from Autobrennero exit Trento and take the road to Riva del Garda, reaching the village Le Sarche. Here continue straight toward Tione di Trento. In Tione turn to right and take the SS 239 Val Rendena route to Pinzolo. Pass Pinzolo and drive a few kilometers towards Madonna di Campiglio. After the village of Carisolo, leave the main road and turn to left, taking a narrow road rising along Val Nambrone towards Laghi di Cornisello. After driving about 9 km on this road with several hairpins we reach a fork. The main road leads to Laghi di Cornisello, we instead turn to left (Rif. Segantini signposts), omit the path n. 211 on our right hand side and continue driving for about 1 km, leaving the car in a good parking lot near the bridge over the river Sarca that leads to the Malga Vallina d'Amola 2020 m.

Walking approach

Go back for about fifty meters along the road to take a mule track on the right  - partially invaded by vegetation - and follow it, getting a signpost "Passo della Nona". Continue on a path with some hairpins and at some point leave the main path to the Passo della Nona and take a track that forks to the left and leads under the wall of the Sentinella del Pedertica (about 20 minutes from the car park). 

Route "Sentinella del Pedertic"

Difficulty: V/A0 or 6a+
Length: 160 m
First ascent: Francesco Salvaterra nov 2017

Funny route fully equipped with a short approach and a predominantly climb on slabs. The route reaches the thiny summit of the Sentinella del Pedertìc, a gendarme located north-east of the Corno di Pedertìc. From here you descend in rappel and you can then go down or continue on the Corno di Pedertìc.

First pitch on Sentinella del Pedertìc
First pitch on Sentinella del Pedertìc
A slab on Sentinella del Pedertìc
A slab on Sentinella del Pedertìc

 

 

L1 Slab and edge, V +, 30 m
L2 Easy connection length, 30 m
L3 Steep corner with technical pitch and slab, V+, 25 m
L4 Slab, IV+, 25 m
L5 Slab, V+, 30 m
L6 Crux pitch, a short move of 6a+ (or IV and A0), 20 m

 

 

 

 

Descent: from the summit a 25 m abseil on the opposite side, then another abseil of 20 m 

Corno del Pedertic

Via "Sacchi"

Difficulty: 6a 
Length: 220 m 
First ascent: R. Maestrelli, M.Polo, L. Quaini, P. Sacchi 11/05/1958

A varied route, on a slab, then a ridge cut by a thin crack. Equipped enough with easy possibility to integrate with mobile protection,  except for the second pitch slab. All the belays are equipped.

 

Presanella seen from Sentinella del Pedertìc
Presanella seen from Sentinella del Pedertìc

Red Tape

 

Logo of Parco Naturale Adamello - Brenta

 

 

 

 

There are no particular restriction in climbing and hiking. Cima Piccolina is located within Parco Naturale Adamello Brenta, the largest protected area in Trentino, established in the year 1967. It's located in Western Trentino and with its 620.51 square kilometers includes the mountain groups of Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Dolomites, separated by Val Rendena.

 

When to Climb

Best period to climb goes from middle June to middle September

Where to stay

Rifugio Segantini
Rifugio Segantini

 

Several possibilities of accomodation in Val Rendena.   Huts:

- Rifugio Nambrone
- Rifugio Segantini

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO
DOLOMITI METEO - TRENTINO

Guidebooks and maps

"Presanella" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI - Dante Ongari, 1978
"110 Itinerari Alpinistici del Gruppo della Presanella" - Urbano Dell'Eva, Edizioni Manfrini 1985

Maps:

"Adamello - Presanella" - Tabacco scala 1:25000



Parents 

Parents

Parents refers to a larger category under which an object falls. For example, theAconcagua mountain page has the 'Aconcagua Group' and the 'Seven Summits' asparents and is a parent itself to many routes, photos, and Trip Reports.

Presanella GroupMountains & Rocks