Corno Segnà 2668 m is a fine minor peak, anyhow very well identified, belonging to the South-Eastern sector of the Presanella Group, and culminating in a tiny summit surrounded by beautiful granite peaks, amongst those the same Presanella main summit. Corno Segnà is lying immediately to the right of Cima Pellissier, just unmistakable in reason of its East wall fully engraved by a wide dihedral, summit that therefore is useful as a reference to locate Corno Segnà, equally attractive but less flashy.
Both the peaks overlook the basin of the magnificent Laghi di Cornisello. Also Corno Signà is engraved in the upper part of its length by an obvious dihedral, giving the line of one of the most frequented climbing route, Diedro dell'Ideale (Ideal Corner).
The road access is from Val Rendena, where a turn-off road allows to reach by car up to more than 2000 m of altitude.
Getting to Val Rendena
Coming from Autobrennero exit Trento and take the road to Riva del Garda, reaching the village Le Sarche. Here continue straight toward Tione di Trento. In Tione turn to right and take the SS 239 Val Rendena route to Pinzolo. Pass Pinzolo and drive a few kilometers towards Madonna di Campiglio. After the village of Carisolo, leave the main road and turn to left, taking a narrow road rising along the Val Nambrone towards Laghi di Cornisello. After driving about 9 km on this road with several hairpins we reach a fork.
The left road leads to Val d’Amola, we instead keep the main road (Laghi di Cornisello) side and continue driving for about 4 km, reaching a parking lot near Rifugio Cornisello (a minute above the parking) and Laghi di Cornisello, situated beyond the bridge along a gravel road (cars not allowed).
Diedro dell’Ideale report - UIAA scale
Summit altitude: 2668 m
Difficulty: IV+ max - UIAA scale
Climbing length: 250 m
Equipment: equipped belays, 1 peg, good possibility to integrate with mobile protections
Starting point: Cornisello lakes parking lot
First ascent: G. Bestetti, T. Beltrami, A. Beltrami 7-7-2015
Pleasant trad route not too demanding, which follows an obvious corner cutting the East face of the peak. The rock is the characteristic kind of granite named "tonalite", of good quality, and the route is advisable and located in an alpine setting of great beauty.
Approach - From the car park cross the bridge and walk along the gravel road skirting the Cornisello lakes; arrived near the Malga Cornisello leave the road and take to the right the path SAT 239 towards Lago della Vedretta (signpost). After about 15 minutes of ascent leave this path and go left, rising without a trace the grassy slopes on the left. After reaching the summit of the hill traverse slightly downhill to the left, heading for the wall cut from the large open dihedral now well in sight.
Cross towards the left a slightly ascending slope of big blocks, heading to the left one of two parallel dihedral at the base of the wall. Attack on a nice well carved wall to the left of the dihedral (hole with rope lanyard). Cairn.
L1 - Climb the nice wall and belay below a dihedral-chimney, III, 30 m.
L2 - Climb the dihedral chimney or, better, the beautiful wall on the left of the chimney - most difficult but most attractive - and belay at the beginning of a grass and rock slope, IV+ or III inside the chimney, 30 m.
L3 - Up the slope for about 30 meters and reach a terrace at the base of a little wall (transfer pitch) .
L4 - Climb the wall above the stance, then follow a gully to reach the stance at the base of the wide regular dihedral, which provides the directive of the second half of the route, III, 30 m.
L5 - From the stance move to the left to take the dihedral (1 peg) and climb it, IV, 30 m.
L6 - Continue along the beautiful dihedral, IV+, 28 m.
L7 - Again along the dihedral, IV+, 30 m.
L8 - Climb up a groove, then turn to right and follow the ridge getting the double summit, III, then I, 30 m.
Descent: from the summit reach the last anchor and from here abseil down along the same route (the abseils max 30 meters long).
A single 60 m rope is enough for abseiling, alternatively 2x50 ropes, helmet, a full set of friends is essential along the pitches (only the belays are equipped)
There are no particular restriction in climbing and hiking. Corno Segnà is located within Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta, the largest protected area in Trentino, established in the year 1967. It's located in Western Trentino and with its 620.51 square kilometers includes the mountain groups of Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Dolomites, separated by Val Rendena.
Best period to climb goes from middle June to middle September
Several possibilities of accomodation in Val Rendena.
"Presanella" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI - Dante Ongari, 1978
"Adamello - Presanella" - Tabacco scala 1:25000