Corno Segnà

Page Type
Mountain/Rock
Location:
Trento, Italy, Europe
County:
Trentino Alto Adige
Activities:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Summer
Elevation:
8753 ft / 2668 m
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Page By:
Corno Segnà
Created On: Oct 5, 2016
Last Edited On: Aug 30, 2018

Overview


Corno Segnà 2668 m

Corno Segnà 2668 m is a fine minor peak, anyhow very well identified, belonging to the South-Eastern sector of the Presanella Group, and culminating in a tiny summit surrounded by beautiful granite peaks, amongst those the same Presanella main summit. Corno Segnà is lying immediately to the right of Cima Pellissier, just unmistakable in reason of its East wall fully engraved by a wide dihedral, summit that therefore is useful as a reference to locate Corno Segnà, equally attractive but less flashy.

Cima Cornisello seen from the lakes
Laghi di Cornisello and Cima Cornisello


Both the peaks overlook the basin of the magnificent Laghi di Cornisello. Also Corno Signà is engraved in the upper part of its length by an obvious dihedral, giving the line of one of the most frequented climbing route, Diedro dell'Ideale (Ideal Corner).

Corno Segnà annotated panorama
Corno Segnà annotated panorama

Getting There

Road access

The road access is from Val Rendena, where a turn-off road allows to reach by car up to more than 2000 m of altitude.  

Getting to Val Rendena

Coming from Autobrennero exit Trento and take the road to Riva del Garda, reaching the village Le Sarche. Here continue straight toward Tione di Trento. In Tione turn to right and take the SS 239 Val Rendena route to Pinzolo. Pass Pinzolo and drive a few kilometers towards Madonna di Campiglio. After the village of Carisolo, leave the main road and turn to left, taking a narrow road rising along the Val Nambrone towards Laghi di Cornisello. After driving about 9 km on this road with several hairpins we reach a fork.

Laghi di Cornisello and Brenta group on background
Laghi di Cornisello and Brenta group on background
Corno Segnà, clouds wandering around the summit
Corno Segnà, clouds wandering around the summit












 

The left road leads to Val d’Amola, we instead keep the main road (Laghi di Cornisello) side and continue driving for about 4 km, reaching a parking lot near Rifugio Cornisello (a minute above the parking) and Laghi di Cornisello, situated beyond the bridge along a gravel road (cars not allowed).

Diedro dell'Ideale report

Diedro dell’Ideale report - UIAA scale

Summit altitude: 2668 m
Difficulty: IV+ max - UIAA scale
Climbing length: 250 m
Equipment: equipped belays, 1 peg, good possibility to integrate with mobile protections
Exposure: East
Starting point: Cornisello lakes parking lot
First ascent: G. Bestetti, T. Beltrami, A. Beltrami 7-7-2015


Pleasant trad route not too demanding, which follows an obvious corner cutting the East face of the peak. The rock is the characteristic kind of granite named "tonalite", of good quality, and the route is advisable and located in an alpine setting of great beauty.

Corno Segnà - Diedro dell Ideale topo


Cornisello, start of the trail
Cornisello, start of the trail
Awesome Cornisello lakes
Awesome Cornisello lakes













Approach - From the car park cross the bridge and walk along the gravel road skirting the Cornisello lakes; arrived near the Malga Cornisello leave the road and take to the right the path SAT 239 towards Lago della Vedretta (signpost). After about 15 minutes of ascent leave this path and go left, rising without a trace the grassy slopes on the left. After reaching the summit of the hill traverse slightly downhill to the left, heading for the wall cut from the large open dihedral now well in sight.
Cross towards the left a slightly ascending slope of big blocks, heading to the left one of two parallel dihedral at the base of the wall. Attack on a nice well carved wall to the left of the dihedral (hole with rope lanyard). Cairn.

Report

L1 - Climb the nice wall and belay below a dihedral-chimney, III, 30 m.
L2 - Climb the dihedral chimney or, better, the beautiful wall on the left of the chimney - most difficult but most attractive - and belay at the beginning of a grass and rock slope, IV+ or III inside the chimney, 30 m.
L3 - Up the slope for about 30 meters and reach a terrace at the base of a little wall (transfer pitch) .

Parties climbing the dihedral, Corno SegnÃ
Climbing the dihedral
Corno Segnà, starting the dihedral
The dihedral











L4 - Climb the wall above the stance, then follow a gully to reach the stance at the base of the wide regular dihedral, which provides the directive of the second half of the route, III, 30 m.
L5 - From the stance move to the left to take the dihedral (1 peg) and climb it, IV, 30 m.
L6 - Continue along the beautiful dihedral, IV+, 28 m.
L7 - Again along the dihedral, IV+, 30 m.
L8 - Climb up a groove, then turn to right and follow the ridge getting the double summit, III, then I, 30 m.

Summit of Corno SignÃ
Summit of Corno Signà 
Starting the abseils, Corno SegnÃ
Starting the abseils











Descent: from the summit reach the last anchor and from here abseil down along the same route (the abseils max 30 meters long).

Essential gear

A single 60 m rope is enough for abseiling, alternatively 2x50 ropes, helmet, a full set of friends is essential along the pitches (only the belays are equipped)

Red Tape

 

Logo of Parco Naturale Adamello - Brenta

There are no particular restriction in climbing and hiking. Corno Segnà is located within Parco Naturale Adamello-Brenta, the largest protected area in Trentino, established in the year 1967. It's located in Western Trentino and with its 620.51 square kilometers includes the mountain groups of Adamello, Presanella and Brenta Dolomites, separated by Val Rendena.

When to Climb

Best period to climb goes from middle June to middle September

Where to stay

Several possibilities of accomodation in Val Rendena.

Huts:

Rifugio Nambrone

Guidebooks and maps

-Guidebooks

"Presanella" - Guida dei Monti d'Italia CAI-TCI - Dante Ongari, 1978

- Maps

"Adamello - Presanella" - Tabacco scala 1:25000

Meteo

METEO TRENTINO

DOLOMITI METEO - TRENTINO







Corno Segnà

Mountain/Rock
13 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

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Parents

Presanella GroupMountains & Rocks