Climbed with Ray Williams in mid-august. I'll be honest, the approach to the base of the rock from plataeu is bullshit, lots of bush whacking - you will bleed.
Regardless, a great climb! We linked pitch 1 and 2 together. I lead pitches 3 and 5. Bring two ropes as you will need them for the rappel off the backside. At the top of the 5th pitch, a lot of people take the ridge to the summit. I can imagine the ridge is quite a bit easier. The original route steps left (west) past the ridge to a chimney with lots of exposure. You'll find a pin half way up, we clipped it. Awesome summit with lots of wind!
Be in for a long day if you are doing this from the parking lot - we were camped up there for the weekend (not necessary). There is a climber's camp near Super Crack Spire (about 200 vertical feet above clearing in the trail to Indian Springs.
Not-so-fun approach, but I LOVE LOVE this route!! My favorite!
Did it in 5 pitches, linked 3 and half of 4. I would skip the bolts on 3 on go straight up and left to a large ledge with a tree, can belay up to the 5th belay from there.
6th(5th for us) is definitely pretty epic. One other party on the wall 2 pitches back.
Did this guy with the girlfriend. Magnificent route but pretty runout on the third pitch. The ridge finish was amazing!
Led the odd numbered pitches. I really enjoyed the ridge variation on p6.
Climbed with Justin on a nice breezy clear day. Did it in the full six pitches this time; I led the even-numbered ones, including the summit ridge.
Also did it in July 2005.
Beautiful route in a spectacular setting, so classic. The upper half of route outshines, p5 is the money. p6 arete variation is a good call. Big snow year, we added a 3rd rap down steep hard snow in the descent gully.
Climbed with Miguel Forjan (forjan) and Tony Bocanegra (Blackmouth). A great day with great friends. It doesn't get any better than this!
This was a perfect end to my week long trip that included Shasta & Lassen. Climbed as a trio with Forjan & Mdostby. I loved the 6th pitch variation on the arete, very exposed and airy. We had the whole place all to ourselves. Awesome day.
Climbed as a trio: mdostby, blackmouth and myself. 5 hrs on the route. Pitch 5 & 6 were so much fun! Great day with great friends! Awesome views of Shasta and Lassen.
this was the first time i climbed this route and my first real multipitch rock lead. it is still one of my favorite climbs, i've done it many times after an evening of partying, it's the perfect hangover cure.
Climbed this in 90 minutes, including a long stop for lunch on one of the great ledges. A nice route, great views, but baking hot this time of year.
Climbed (and downclimbed) a couple of other routes in the afternoon for a nice 16-pitch day.
This is a beautiful, moderate route, but it gave me sciatica. No joke. I couldn't climb (or walk normally) for another 6 months.
Etsuko and I took our friends up Cosmic Wall. This was my 2nd ascent of this route. I was grateful for the opportunity to lead every pitch. Excellent weather, great company, fantastic climbing. What else can one wish for!?