Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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PAROFES - Jan 17, 2011 10:31 am

Re: OK!

Thanks Andre! Rob was right, and Boris as well!


tmfaust21 - Jan 27, 2011 6:46 pm

Re: OK!

Glad to heard the weather finally worked out for you! By the way, this is one of the US climbers from Tennessee. Met you at Central del Mundo. I finally took your advice and got a summitpost account. We flew out the morning you were going for the summit and the weather was awesome. We figured you were probably on the summit or just coming down as it was about 7am when we were flying out. good luck to you


mirhash - Jan 15, 2011 12:47 am Date Climbed: Dec 31, 2010

First taste of higher altitude unguided  Sucess!

We were the last ones to the top after starting at 2am but we caught with the last group and had some spectacular views!


CBakwin - Jan 12, 2011 7:12 am Date Climbed: Jan 11, 2011

yo  Sucess!

We tried to sleep in a jam packed refugio..not much luck, up just after midnight, out the door at 1:30 after the rush....clear starry night but wind, probably around 24 degrees with 15mph wind gusting to 40, all the way up. long beautiful slog, if we coudl have seen it (it was dark the whole way up) reached the top in just under 5 hours, then descending in the light but clouds had rolled in before sunrise, so we saw no views, but nice ice and snow bridges ..... Very fun!


PAROFES - Jan 10, 2011 5:05 pm Date Climbed: Jan 10, 2011

Bad weather again...

That's it, i'm done with cotopaxi.
Checked the weather forecast for Cotopaxi the night before! said to me i d get perfect conditions at 9th and today, 10th, perfect cloudless sky until around 14:00h.
Got to the parking lot at 11am, it was snowing again...walk up to the refuge under snow again, and freezing cold...
Went to sleep with the winds singing all night long.
Woke up at 23:30h, not even got the chance of leave the refuge, worst conditions ever.
Again, nobody summited Cotopaxi today.
That's it, i'm not gonna try anymore, really pissed off....


rgg - Jan 10, 2011 6:26 pm

Re: Bad weather again...

Oh no, Paulo, it takes three tries to succeed, you just have to try it one more time!


PAROFES - Jan 4, 2011 6:35 pm Date Climbed: Jan 4, 2011

Bad weather

Stoped me from reach its summit...
Had to turn back at around 5250m due to strong snowstorm...
I guess i'll have to try again!


centrifuge - Dec 25, 2010 10:22 am Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2010

Normal Route - Part Deux  Sucess!

This is an amazing mountain, we were lucky enough to get to attempt it the second time we went to the park this month. We were in clouds on the summit and lots of newer snow, but 100% worth it!


rgg - Dec 25, 2010 9:53 am Date Climbed: Dec 22, 2010

Third time lucky  Sucess!

After two earlier failed attempts, I finally made it. North route, solo.

andre hangaard

andre hangaard - Dec 16, 2010 10:27 am Date Climbed: Dec 5, 2010

Third time: success  Sucess!

This was my third time on the mountain. In 2005 our guided climb was aborted due to bad weather forecast and in February 2010 I made a bivy in the icecave at 5.300 due to an even worse storm with very strong winds during my solo attempt.

My third attempt was finally succesfull. Although there were some obstacles on the way here too.
In the night before, all climbers came back with out summiting very early in the morning. It turned out that the snowbridge over the Big Crevasse up at 5.500m had collpased the day before. After receiving some info the next day we were told to pass the Big Crevasse to the left. Still great confusion occured around the collapsed snow bridge in the middle of the night and a couple of parties decided to turn around as people seemed to fumbling around in all directions in the dark. It was rather cold queuing around on the steep slopes.
Eventually we did find some tracks to the left and it turned out that it was no problem at all crossing the crevasse. Johan Dahlström and I summited at 07:10 and had the entire summit for ourselves.

Finally I managed to scale this fantastic mountain. The route was great, taking us zig-zaging through the amazing world of snow and ice. I loved every second of it.


rgg - Dec 25, 2010 9:58 am

Re: Third time: success

Congrats, Andre!
I´m starting to see a pattern emerging here, apparently this mountain simply takes three attempts to climb it. Maybe a note for the guidebooks?


rgg - Dec 13, 2010 6:21 pm Date Climbed: Dec 13, 2010

High avalanche risk

This one got away.

I climbed with Boriss. A few days before, a big thunderstorm had dropped a new load of snow on Cotopaxi (the same one that caught us on Sincholagua).
On the night of the climb it was warm, just below freezing. Boriss carefully investigated the snow layers several times, and at a steep section just below 5400 m he saw that the top 30 cm or so of snow was just waiting for a trigger to set off a massive slab avelanche, so we returned. Of course I was disappointed not to summit, but it was the only possible decision, and I´ve learned a bit more about how to gage avalanche risk. To continue would be nothing but a gamble with our lives, and I don´t like those odds.


noahs213 - Nov 7, 2010 4:03 pm Date Climbed: Nov 7, 2010

Great  Sucess!

Not to bad. Nice ice finish


DCcoug - Sep 3, 2010 5:00 pm Date Climbed: Jun 13, 1999

I Think I summited ...  Sucess!

Near total whiteout for the last 300 or 400 meters. Pretty sure I was on the summit because I could see a portion of what looked like a crater and some people in our group had cameras out. Not sure what they were taking pictures of, but then again I was also a little hypoxic. Beautiful mountain and nice hut at the base.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Jul 19, 2010 6:30 pm Date Climbed: Jul 18, 2010

Spectacular close.  Sucess!

Andrea (CAN) and I closed our trip in a spectacular way after a week of camping, hiking and hitch hiking through the Andes by climbing Cotopaxi (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) in just 5 hours from our camping site.

Nobody summited Cotopaxi in the last two days and we made it!!. We left our tent 10 minutes before 2 am, and passed all the climbing teams on our way up. We got to see the crater for a while.

Got back to the refuge in 1 hour 20! I really enjoy this climb!! :).

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Jul 5, 2010 1:48 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2010

New Route on Cotopaxi!!  Sucess!

Climbed with Anna (RUS). We left from the refuge at 1:20 am, an hour after all of the other parties left. Very bad weather on our way up, very windy and extremelly cold.

But we enjoyed climbing up by the new route, which is completely different from the other routes I've climbed in Cotopaxi. It features very deep beautiful crevasses and huge seracs towering at both sides of the new route.

Got to the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) at 7:20 am, stayed just 5 minutes at the top and rushed ourselves down before getting blown off the mountain :)

Got back to Quito by night.


mychael - May 6, 2010 3:24 pm Date Climbed: Jan 3, 2007

So cold!  Sucess!

First higher altitude climb. Made it despite shivering for the last 1000 ft or so.


apachedino - Apr 23, 2010 8:28 pm Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2010

Picture Perfect  Sucess!

Perfect weather! A relief especially because we had not even seen the peak in the 5 days we had been there.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Apr 19, 2010 6:39 pm Date Climbed: Apr 11, 2010

Twelve hours of hard work! Falls, crevasses, avalanches and thunderstorms.  Sucess!

Climbed with Christine (FRA): We started at 1:30 am from the refuge. It was a warm night and the new fresh snow didn't get compacted enought. Crossed the thin large bridge crevasses before they collapse.

Got a radio call just 50 meters below the summit. I needed to leave Christine with Fausto (EC Guide) and go down to Yanasacha again (5,600 m) in order to guide Bernard up (FRA) to the summit (his guide wasn't feeling good).

Felt like climbing Cotopaxi twice. Bernard (68) and I joined the rest of the french team up at the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft). We were the only team that summited that morning.

Got back from the summit with Bernard and Michele. Bernard slipped down near the traverse below the summit. Michele and I got him.. uff!.

Once in Yanasacha platform Rafael(EC) roped up with Bernard and I did the same with Michele. It was already 11:30 am and the snow conditions were awful!.

We all had a hard time crossing the deep crevasses above 5,500 m. The ice bridges were weak and pierced by the other teams on the way down.

Crevasse crossing picture

Rafael and I fixed lines and crossed our clients to the other side of the crevasses. As I was the last to cross the bridges, I broke them in two, the last ladder felt down to the void. but it was attached by a fix rope to the lip of the crevasse.

Five minutes later we triggered an avalanch. Rafael felt a couple meters down but he self arrested on time.

The day couldn't be complete without a heavy thunderstorm. Thunder stroke a few kms away... kind of scary at times.

Got back to the refuge at 1:30 pm. What a relief.


jef80 - Mar 15, 2010 11:05 pm Date Climbed: Feb 20, 2010

Normal Route  Sucess!

Got a late start but had great weather

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