Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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pokie - Dec 19, 2012 6:09 pm Date Climbed: Feb 26, 2012

loose  Sucess!

Some fresh snowfall and wind made a few short traverses a pain, but not too bad.

jm141302

jm141302 - Dec 10, 2012 9:51 am Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2012

Very Windy  Sucess!

Stayed in the refugio which was completely full. Some people had to sleep on the tables and benches downstairs. The wind was severe. Walking and standing were impossible at some points. Our group of 3 was the only group to get to the top that day. We started at 1:00 a.m., got to the top by 6:00 and returned at 9:30. Everything on us became covered in a thick layer of ice. We could only spend about 5 minutes on the summit. Not much of a view. The best part of the trip was meeting Erik Weihenmayer and the Soldiers to Summits team. First-class group and organization.

Bill562

Bill562 - Nov 30, 2012 12:01 am Date Climbed: Nov 19, 2012

Coto - second time on summit  Sucess!

With Murad and Mike. No acclimatization - summited 57 hours after landing in Quito. The route was quite a bit different this time - primarily more icy, weather was better this time.

ajaysomani

ajaysomani - Nov 29, 2012 3:21 pm Date Climbed: Nov 28, 2012

Normal Route  Sucess!

This was a second attempt after I abandoned the first time due to bad health a couple of days ago. Weather this time was great, completely clear and we even got to see the crater!

attimount

attimount - Nov 25, 2012 6:11 pm Date Climbed: Jul 15, 2012

Normal route

Unfortunately we had to turn back just about one hour from the summt due to tiredness. Great conditions, nice weather. Maybe next time.

jackroper

jackroper - Aug 6, 2012 6:03 pm Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2012

Cold....  Sucess!

We were shut down once on Cayambe and once on Cotopaxi on this trip. The weather was brutal. Our guide Billy from RMI got consensus from us to go on an all out sufferfest and push to the top in a final summit bid. It was tough but in the end we stood on top covered in an inch of rime ice. Good times.

logikal

logikal - Aug 6, 2012 3:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2012

Wonderful Glacier  Sucess!

What a beautiful glacier! Great view from the top with little to no wind. Such a clear night we didnt have to turn on our headlamps once.

Bluebell08

Bluebell08 - Jul 21, 2012 11:31 am Date Climbed: Jul 6, 2012

Standard route  Sucess!

Great climb, quite windy but clear other than some low clouds that still gave us decent views (but not of the crater). 7+ hours to the top, only about 2 hour decent. Snow conditions were very good, got a lucky break in the weather (that had included ice/snow/drizzle in the days prior) for a perfect climb and summit day.

stefbarsanti - Jul 2, 2012 9:13 am Date Climbed: Jul 1, 2012

windy ascent  Sucess!

Wow!!! What an incredible mission that was!! Others had told me that it was a reasonably straight forward climb, but the strong winds on Sunday morning made it a very tough ascent. The route was quite straight forward, had to jump over a few crevasses, but other than that, snow conditions were excellent, but strong winds really make this climb very challenging. Left the refugio at 1.15am and summited at 6.15am, exhausted, emotional, and very relieved. Thanks to my guide Nicholas, he is the man!!!

jackroper

jackroper - Aug 6, 2012 6:04 pm

Re: Rebuffed

You were there the same time we were. It was a tough week and few teams summited.

schleger

schleger - Jun 22, 2012 1:32 am Date Climbed: Jun 20, 2012

Whew!  Sucess!

Summited, I think. I am thankful to have my daughter, Guide Edgar, and my camera to help me reconstruct the events that took place between 12:30 am and 6:35 am (I think my watch said 6:35 but I was encapsulated in a layer of rime ice). The landscape with all its shapes, curves, angles was surreal. I will sit down with my daughter to analyze the photos to determine what was real or an altitude induced hallucination. The mouse or vole-like mammal running around in circles on the snow at 18,000 was real! Great experience!

Arnie777

Arnie777 - May 21, 2012 2:09 pm Date Climbed: Dec 28, 2011

Cotopaxi Normal Route  Sucess!

Amazing mountain! Arrived at the refuge late afternoon and started climbing with our guide at 1:30 AM. Weather was very poor with snow and wind all night long. No view at the top, as there were clouds and winds blowing up the mountain. Really cold day and our guide apologized for the bad weather. I can say im proud of myself because only a handfull people made it to the summit that day.

Socorro

Socorro - May 1, 2012 9:32 pm Date Climbed: May 1, 2012

Second attempt...

Four teams today - two American (as one party) and two French as one party. None of us made it. One team went down due to altitude sickness, and the rest of us reached the very same crevasse I mentioned in my last log in September at about 5400 meters. Again, we tried to pick our way through it but couldnt quite do it. Had to jump a little onto a serac and climb up that to continue through the mess. The French teams watching us work on the ice decided to turn back at that point and we shortly followed. The weather was less than desireable with some wind and blowing snow, lot of rime ice. Disappointed but had a really fun time and felt great most of the way. Plus I still have a year left to finally get through that crevasse!

Garon Coriz

Garon Coriz - Jul 1, 2012 6:59 pm

Re: Second attempt...

Seems like New Mexicans hit a ceiling around that crevasse. A guy from NM Tech couldn't find his way through it. My friend knew the way but we turned around due to time constraints.

larch32

larch32 - Mar 8, 2012 7:57 pm Date Climbed: Mar 8, 2012

Cotopaxi  Sucess!

I vastly underestimated this peak. The objective danger and crevasse danger were both more than anyone I talked to let on. Took off from the refuge at about 12:30 and we were on the top before 6am... climbed completely by moonlight.

Meghdoot - May 18, 2012 9:21 am

Re: Cotopaxi

Hi, Congratulations. Which guide service have you used?

reconronin949

reconronin949 - Jan 6, 2012 4:04 pm Date Climbed: Dec 9, 2011

RMI strikes again!  Sucess!

Was part of a great team, led by RMI guides Casey, JT, and Freddie (Ecuadoran climbing machine). Snowed all night, headed out at about 1 AM. First team out of the gate, so we had to kick steps all the way up. Our group was big, and for the size, made good overall time. Summitted in just a bit over 7 hrs. Back down in 3:10. Windy, a couple of tricky parts/crevasses, but a great climb.

chicagosky

chicagosky - Jan 4, 2012 8:35 am Date Climbed: Dec 30, 2011

First attempt

Attempted to climb Cotopaxi as the third climb of my trip to Ecuador. Had to turn around at 5500 meters as I was completely out of gas and didnt think I could make it back even if I made it to the summit.

lutty11

lutty11 - Dec 28, 2011 10:51 pm Date Climbed: Nov 20, 2010

Standard Route   Sucess!

Well acclimated from Cayambe days earlier, made for an enjoyable and successful climb. Great views, very rewarding!

MMclimbhigh

MMclimbhigh - Dec 19, 2011 4:54 pm Date Climbed: Dec 6, 2011

Normal Route  Sucess!

Great climb up the normal route. Full moon = No headlamp! Amazing route up through tropical glaciers! This was the one, beautiful sunny day we had in Ecuador. Very lucky. Only a couple of other parties on the mountain and in the hut. Great climb, don't miss this one!

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