Cotopaxi Climber's Log

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Desert Solitaire

Desert Solitaire - Aug 27, 2008 12:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2008

Cotopaxi, Solo-paxi  Sucess!

Climbed solo, but hardly a solitary experience, as I counted over 35 people as I passed them up on the way up. Left the hut at 2am, summit at 5:30. Arrived too early, so huddled together in the biting cold and spindrift for 45 minutes for the warmth to come, but it never did. Cloudy, misty, no views of the crater or other volcanoes. After some dancing around the misty crater, descended back to the hut in 1 hr from the top. Made friends with lots of the wonderful Ecuadorian mountain guides - very nice folks and filled with lots good vibes back at the hut! Total RT time: 5.5 hrs.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Aug 23, 2008 3:29 pm Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2008

Route climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!

Trevor (ENG) and I got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) @ 6:50 am. Six hours of climbing on soft snow.

It snowed the whole night and morning, we got at least 2 feet of new snow. The crater was cloudy...but we got to see the lowlands and RumiƱahui completely covered by snow.


pyerger - Aug 12, 2008 11:12 pm Date Climbed: Feb 20, 2004

Try again next time

I should have spent a little more time on the mountain, Got A.M.S. wow! it was bad. Made to about 17500 feet. I will have to go back.


mmcguigan - Aug 1, 2008 4:26 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2008

Normal Route  Sucess!

Great climb up. Took us about 5 hours to top out. We were covered with ice. Got a quick view of the cone and then the clouds ate everything up.


HeyItsBen - Jul 31, 2008 5:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2008

Normal Route  Sucess!

Wanted to get to this peak after I saw some pictures of it 4 years before, such an amazing mountain. Weather was bad, no views from the top, and it was much more challenging than I expected. Some of the most beautiful crevasses I've ever seen.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Jul 30, 2008 12:02 pm Date Climbed: Jul 27, 2008

Route climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!

A fast climb. Irina (RUS) and I got to the summit (5,897 m/19,347 ft) @ 5:50 am. Just before sunrise. Couldn't see the crater but an endless sea of clouds beneath us.

Conditions on the mountain were perfect, just a bit windy above 5,400 m.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Jul 15, 2008 1:09 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2008

Route climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!

Raquel (ECU) and I left the refuge at 12:36 am. Climbing conditions were perfect up to 5,200 m, the end of Heartbreaker route (rompe corazones). Once at the ridge, the wind increased significantly and we both felt like kytes, being blown away of the mountain.

We got to the top (5,897 m/19,347 ft) at 7:50 am. Had a great view of surroundings and the crater as well. Came back to the refuge and headed back to town very happy.

Nice experience. Can't say the same about the overnight at the refuge where the ecuatorian Army and their families didn't let anybody sleep. Noisy people with no respect for climbers!


cristakhe - Feb 26, 2008 9:57 am Date Climbed: Jan 31, 2008

normal route  Sucess!

Nice route, but with to many climbers.

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Feb 18, 2008 8:21 pm Date Climbed: Jan 22, 2008

Route climbed: Rompecorazones (Heartbreaker route).  Sucess!

After two nights at the refuge we pushed for the summit. The snow/ice conditions were great, and even more after the last avalanche that covered the last part near the summit.

Heloise (FRA), Gary (USA) and I were lucky to see the crater and surrounding mountains in this clear day. It was just amazing!


Hotfeet - Jan 21, 2008 8:42 pm Date Climbed: Jan 15, 2008

Normal route  Sucess!

A great climb. Views of crater were totally cloud covered.


ericd - Jan 16, 2008 4:37 pm Date Climbed: Jan 13, 2008

Wonderful high altitude nirvana  Sucess!

3,500' upper elevation gain with 45 degree consistent climbing. Class 2-3, porters fixed a couple of 100 meter lines vertically and horizontally, to safeguard against the few hungry crevasses. Huge 400' rock wall traversed about 2/3 the way up, called Yanasacha. Perfect lava dome volcano with a straight forward approach. Set out at midnight after spending comfortable evening at Jose Ribas base camp 15,800'. 7hrs later reached the summit with tiny breaks in the clouds but remaining high humidity and low visibility. A bit windy enough to justify breathing thru a tight balaclava. A wonderful high altitude nirvana at 19,347'.

Jerry S

Jerry S - Dec 14, 2007 9:24 am Date Climbed: Dec 7, 2007

Normal Route

Great climb. Tough climb. Turned around 200ft from the summit due to seeing stars on the ground. Felt great after descending 300ft, but that was the end of my day.
Sweet mountain.


Outdoorpartner - Nov 20, 2007 1:54 pm Date Climbed: Dec 11, 2006

Fantastic summit  Sucess!

Was suffering greatly from some intestinal distress, so making the summit was a very BIG success for me!


mnichols - Sep 22, 2007 11:39 pm Date Climbed: Jul 26, 2007

Route climbed: Normal Route  Sucess!

Great, fun climb higher up on the glacier. I loved the way the trail undulates up and down and around the ice features. We had a beautiful day for a climb, really lucked out. Summited at 0815. Trip report

Boriss Andean

Boriss Andean - Sep 20, 2007 10:00 pm Date Climbed: Mar 6, 1996

Route climbed: Normal Route.  Sucess!

Snow/ice conditions were perfect, but cloudy during the entire climb.

We couldn't even see the crater, but it was one of the best moments in my life, being up there with Andres (my brother) and a bunch of climbers and guides like Gaspar Navarrete and Gabriel Llano (+) who let us follow them up with generosity.

Gabriel Llano died years later while guiding a pitch in Cordillera Real Bolivia. It was great to share moments with him and the rest of climbers.

This was the beginning of countless trips to Cotopaxi. (My first time on Cotopaxi's top)


paisajeroamericano - Sep 13, 2007 5:54 am Date Climbed: Jan 31, 2007

Best View Yet?  Sucess!

Incredible climb. My first roped-up, high elevation, glacier climb (>5000m). I hitchhiked into the park, walked to Laguna Limpiopungo, attempted Cerro Ruminahui the next day, spent two days climbing up the road to the refugio, and rested a whole day at the refugio before attempting the summit. Perfect weather, a full moon, and a wonderful night. Reached the summit too early, waited at the ice cave/wall and the crater's edge to catch sunrise. And what a view. Floating on a bed of clouds, with only the other 5000m volcanoes shining in the distance.


pkrebs - Aug 20, 2007 6:53 pm Date Climbed: Sep 19, 2006

Unsuccessful Attempt - Normal Route

Came down with a case of HAPE somewhere around 17.500' and had to head back. Make sure to acclimatize well for this climb.


jweidman - Aug 12, 2007 12:56 am Date Climbed: Jan 5, 2006

Ruta Normal  Sucess!

Much nicer day this time--perfect views. Long day (14hrs) as we waited at several times for hrs to help our slower teams. Way down was crazy as some people were dead--one guy was so screwed up we had to give him dex.


Sara_Matisse - Aug 11, 2007 12:11 pm

Standard Route

Ecuador is a beautiful country with beautiful people. Our group was unsuccessful on Cotopaxi - moving too slow/I got an upset stomach from our guides 'idea' of dinner. Note to self: always cook a dinner you know your stomach can handle before a summit climb - I always bring a dinner from the States for that purpose.

bds670 - Jul 11, 2007 11:56 pm Date Climbed: Jul 3, 2007

Normal Route  Sucess!

Great weather, good climb. Summited with no wind or clouds!

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