We left around 1am and reached the summit for sunrise after 5 hours. The route was well marked since it hadn't snowed for a few days. We crossed the ladder over the final crevasse and used it going down as well even through there was a snow bridge just 20 feet away. The summit crater is an amazing sight.
Photos and Trip Report
Left the hut at 0100 and summited around 0800. I had to go pee at 2100 on the night before the climb and saw the clear sky and moon lit glacier! When we awoke it was not too cold (about 20f degrees I would guess) and calm. It got windy towards the summit (go figure) and colder. I did the whole climb in two long sleve layers, only putting on my jacket at the summit and for the decent.
The ladder was out, (unless you wanted to try something like the jump in the movie Vertical Limit) so we had to traverse around the crevasse to a small snow bridge then up to the summit.
Started from the hut at 0100 and summited at 0745. Clear night but strong winds. Soft snow and wind made the climb very difficult. The clouds were wipping around on the summit. No view of the crater. Interesting route meandering through the crevasse field and seracs. Felt great to hit my personal altitude record (to be broken 3 days later on Chimborazo).
Started at 1 a.m. to the summit. Bad weather - strong winds. No view on the summit, that we reached at 7 a.m. A day, where you feel the nature and yourself.
Bad weather with no views. 60mph winds around the wind scoop just below Yanasasha on the way down. Great time though.
For my first major big summit, it was absolutely spectacular. Views were brilliant, guides amazing, the whole experience one never to forget.
Summated in an ice storm... visibility 5 metres. Somewhat disappointing. The view before the storm though made everything worthwhile.
LLegamos a la cumbrebastante temprano(5:30 am)Bastante frio, muy nublado pero bueno. La cumbre fue junto con René MOntero.
Not well acclamatized and climbing solo. Ran into storm, 2m visibility, happy didn't fall into cravesses. Started at 12am and aborted around 2am around 5000m.
dope climb. thanks gio (representin oakland) and diego "vamos a la playa" castillo for draggin' my a** up. we left the refugio after not sleeping a wink just after midnight and summited around 8:00 am. mad altitude sickness, but made it paso a pasito up the ill 50-60 degree slope at the end. spectacular views from the top, but i think the martian landscape and all of ecuador laid out before you in the moonlight was the dopest. then when you come back down in the light you're like "what the **** did i just climb up?"
Hooked up with a random german guy called Steffen in Quito. Wore jeans and a silk shirt (plus some other stuff, naturally) on summit day. Had to retreat from somewhere quite near the top when a storm swept in and visibility got bad.
After a going back because of bad snow conditions and too much wind on Dec. 20, 2003, we returned to Cotopaxi on Jan. 2, 2004. It was a clear night with a little bit of wind.
The summit was without clouds but when we finally reached it, the crater was coverd with clouds.
Finally I reached the Cotopaxi summit in my 4th try. It was great!!!
Straightforward climb, good weather.
Climbed Cotopaxi 2 times in 7 days, just to be sure to take good pictures of everything !
Wonderful trek through ice and crevasses; much more snow on Dec 14, making way down dangerous .
6 hours on the way up from the hut, 1.5 hour on the way down .
I climbed with Uli from Austria and her guide Pato Salazar on Dec 07 ( my guide J. Mesias had to go back with the other client of our party ) .
I climbed with Craig Vieth from the USA and his guide Jacobo on Dec 14 ( my guide Flavio had to go back with the other client of our party )!!!!
Thanks to all these people for helping me to climb this fantastic mountain .
Viva Ecuador !
I climbed this mountain with Peter, from Sweden. He had never done any mountaineering before, but managed to summit. It was very crowded that day and we started out as the last group from the refuge. We passed more groups than I could count. The weather started out nice and became really windy and then visibility dropped to about 10 feet. This made the last steep section very hard. Our group and only one other group managed to summit that day. It is a great climb. I highly reccommend it. The picture is of Peter at the summit. Obviously a bit tired! You can see how bad the visibility was. I wish I would have been able to see into the crater or the view. I guess I'll just have to go back.
Climbed to the summit in 5 hours from the hut with Paul Hudson, arriving on top at 6:30AM. Perfect summit day - clear skies and not too cold. All of the other volcanoes were visible from the summit. The glacier was very complex and would be difficult to navigate with no track. The final 300m to the summit were a beast. Strong smell of sulfur near the summit. Definitely a beautiful mountain.
Started to climb at 1.00 am. After climbing Misti and Chachani in Peru, I was well acclimatised. Despite the fact that I had no altitude problems, I had to slow down. The weather conditions were fine (good visibility, no wind). The last 200 altimeters are more steep. Reached the summit in 6,5 hours together with my guide Raul (agency: Julio Verne). Nice views on the crater and my next peak (Chimborazo).
On the way down we moved fast (sometimes taking a short cut jumping across a crevasse). Reached the refugio without any problems.
I climbed Cotopaxi by the normal route. The ice started about 5100 metres high. The glacier was very icy and it was dificult to find the track because there wasn´t snow in this part of the way. It's better to have a guide before you to find the correct way. You can find in the descent some hidden holes in the snow. If you go with a guide you have to be careful: they want to climb quickly, and some of them don't want to get the top.
Tomás Blázquez, Madrid, Spain
The south route was nice but no better than the north side (normal route). We had to turn around because of an inmense crevease that blocked the route.
On the normal route 2 of the 6 of my group reached the summit. I got sick and turn around at 5.700 m.
Going there again in December 2003 and going down on skis!!!
My first attempt was on February 8, 1976 when I was working there with the Peace Corps. We made it to 17,000' and turned back. I'd forgot about this but was looking through some of my old letters and found several references to our failed attempt.
My next attempt was with my son in February, 2003. We left the refuge at about 1:00 a.m. The weather was terrible with sleet and high winds. It was evident that I had not completely recovered from a virus which I had several days earlier and I felt very weak. I decided to turn around at about 16,500' , short of the glaciers, as I knew I didn't have the energy to summit. My son made it to the glaciers with our guide and then they turned back.