Cotopaxi Climber's Log

Viewing: 201-220 of 233

amcfarre - Feb 16, 2005 9:52 am

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Jan 28, 2005  Sucess!

We left around 1am and reached the summit for sunrise after 5 hours. The route was well marked since it hadn't snowed for a few days. We crossed the ladder over the final crevasse and used it going down as well even through there was a snow bridge just 20 feet away. The summit crater is an amazing sight.

Photos and Trip Report


neoday - Feb 15, 2005 1:16 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 20, 2005  Sucess!


Left the hut at 0100 and summited around 0800. I had to go pee at 2100 on the night before the climb and saw the clear sky and moon lit glacier! When we awoke it was not too cold (about 20f degrees I would guess) and calm. It got windy towards the summit (go figure) and colder. I did the whole climb in two long sleve layers, only putting on my jacket at the summit and for the decent.

The ladder was out, (unless you wanted to try something like the jump in the movie Vertical Limit) so we had to traverse around the crevasse to a small snow bridge then up to the summit.


esugi - Jan 31, 2005 7:36 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 27, 2005  Sucess!

Started from the hut at 0100 and summited at 0745. Clear night but strong winds. Soft snow and wind made the climb very difficult. The clouds were wipping around on the summit. No view of the crater. Interesting route meandering through the crevasse field and seracs. Felt great to hit my personal altitude record (to be broken 3 days later on Chimborazo).


bluescrummachine - Jan 13, 2005 7:14 am

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: January 2005  Sucess!

Started at 1 a.m. to the summit. Bad weather - strong winds. No view on the summit, that we reached at 7 a.m. A day, where you feel the nature and yourself.


jweidman - Jan 10, 2005 3:31 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: 7 Jan 2005  Sucess!

Bad weather with no views. 60mph winds around the wind scoop just below Yanasasha on the way down. Great time though.

climbingsarah - Dec 13, 2004 4:37 pm

Route Climbed: standard Date Climbed: july 2004  Sucess!

For my first major big summit, it was absolutely spectacular. Views were brilliant, guides amazing, the whole experience one never to forget.

Daniel Klassen

Daniel Klassen - Oct 28, 2004 1:23 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Spring 2001  Sucess!

Summated in an ice storm... visibility 5 metres. Somewhat disappointing. The view before the storm though made everything worthwhile.


Engendradodelayuca - Apr 19, 2004 7:33 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Julio 2001  Sucess!

LLegamos a la cumbrebastante temprano(5:30 am)Bastante frio, muy nublado pero bueno. La cumbre fue junto con René MOntero.


roadsidefire - Apr 14, 2004 4:15 am

Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: June 2003

Not well acclamatized and climbing solo. Ran into storm, 2m visibility, happy didn't fall into cravesses. Started at 12am and aborted around 2am around 5000m.


mookyee - Mar 9, 2004 1:08 am

Route Climbed: normal Date Climbed: july 17, 2002  Sucess!

dope climb. thanks gio (representin oakland) and diego "vamos a la playa" castillo for draggin' my a** up. we left the refugio after not sleeping a wink just after midnight and summited around 8:00 am. mad altitude sickness, but made it paso a pasito up the ill 50-60 degree slope at the end. spectacular views from the top, but i think the martian landscape and all of ecuador laid out before you in the moonlight was the dopest. then when you come back down in the light you're like "what the **** did i just climb up?"

Dan Bailey

Dan Bailey - Feb 10, 2004 12:15 pm

Route Climbed: via normale Date Climbed: some time in 1997

Hooked up with a random german guy called Steffen in Quito. Wore jeans and a silk shirt (plus some other stuff, naturally) on summit day. Had to retreat from somewhere quite near the top when a storm swept in and visibility got bad.

Miguel Angel Perez

Miguel Angel Perez - Jan 24, 2004 4:33 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Date Climbed: Jan. 02, 2004  Sucess!

After a going back because of bad snow conditions and too much wind on Dec. 20, 2003, we returned to Cotopaxi on Jan. 2, 2004. It was a clear night with a little bit of wind.

The summit was without clouds but when we finally reached it, the crater was coverd with clouds.

Finally I reached the Cotopaxi summit in my 4th try. It was great!!!

mtnfoto - Jan 20, 2004 7:01 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: February 1993  Sucess!

Straightforward climb, good weather.

edouet - Jan 7, 2004 12:36 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: Dec 07 and 14, 2003  Sucess!

Climbed Cotopaxi 2 times in 7 days, just to be sure to take good pictures of everything !

Wonderful trek through ice and crevasses; much more snow on Dec 14, making way down dangerous .

6 hours on the way up from the hut, 1.5 hour on the way down .

I climbed with Uli from Austria and her guide Pato Salazar on Dec 07 ( my guide J. Mesias had to go back with the other client of our party ) .

I climbed with Craig Vieth from the USA and his guide Jacobo on Dec 14 ( my guide Flavio had to go back with the other client of our party )!!!!

Thanks to all these people for helping me to climb this fantastic mountain .

Viva Ecuador !


Drifter - Dec 27, 2003 12:45 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: November 16, 2002  Sucess!

I climbed this mountain with Peter, from Sweden. He had never done any mountaineering before, but managed to summit. It was very crowded that day and we started out as the last group from the refuge. We passed more groups than I could count. The weather started out nice and became really windy and then visibility dropped to about 10 feet. This made the last steep section very hard. Our group and only one other group managed to summit that day. It is a great climb. I highly reccommend it. The picture is of Peter at the summit. Obviously a bit tired! You can see how bad the visibility was. I wish I would have been able to see into the crater or the view. I guess I'll just have to go back.

Tom Fralich

Tom Fralich - Dec 22, 2003 8:02 pm

Route Climbed: Normal Route Date Climbed: December 22, 2003  Sucess!

Climbed to the summit in 5 hours from the hut with Paul Hudson, arriving on top at 6:30AM. Perfect summit day - clear skies and not too cold. All of the other volcanoes were visible from the summit. The glacier was very complex and would be difficult to navigate with no track. The final 300m to the summit were a beast. Strong smell of sulfur near the summit. Definitely a beautiful mountain.


Rockhopper - Oct 22, 2003 4:29 am

Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: october 13-14, 2003  Sucess!

Started to climb at 1.00 am. After climbing Misti and Chachani in Peru, I was well acclimatised. Despite the fact that I had no altitude problems, I had to slow down. The weather conditions were fine (good visibility, no wind). The last 200 altimeters are more steep. Reached the summit in 6,5 hours together with my guide Raul (agency: Julio Verne). Nice views on the crater and my next peak (Chimborazo).

On the way down we moved fast (sometimes taking a short cut jumping across a crevasse). Reached the refugio without any problems.

Tomás Blázquez

Tomás Blázquez - Oct 18, 2003 4:45 pm

Route Climbed: normal route Date Climbed: August 2003

I climbed Cotopaxi by the normal route. The ice started about 5100 metres high. The glacier was very icy and it was dificult to find the track because there wasn´t snow in this part of the way. It's better to have a guide before you to find the correct way. You can find in the descent some hidden holes in the snow. If you go with a guide you have to be careful: they want to climb quickly, and some of them don't want to get the top.

Tomás Blázquez, Madrid, Spain

Miguel Angel Perez

Miguel Angel Perez - Aug 22, 2003 11:08 am

Route Climbed: South Route and Normal Route Date Climbed: April, 2002

The south route was nice but no better than the north side (normal route). We had to turn around because of an inmense crevease that blocked the route.

On the normal route 2 of the 6 of my group reached the summit. I got sick and turn around at 5.700 m.

Going there again in December 2003 and going down on skis!!!

Jerry L

Jerry L - Mar 6, 2003 4:49 am Date Climbed: Feb 8, 1976

Normal Route / February, 1976 & February, 2003

My first attempt was on February 8, 1976 when I was working there with the Peace Corps. We made it to 17,000' and turned back. I'd forgot about this but was looking through some of my old letters and found several references to our failed attempt.

My next attempt was with my son in February, 2003. We left the refuge at about 1:00 a.m. The weather was terrible with sleet and high winds. It was evident that I had not completely recovered from a virus which I had several days earlier and I felt very weak. I decided to turn around at about 16,500' , short of the glaciers, as I knew I didn't have the energy to summit. My son made it to the glaciers with our guide and then they turned back.

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