Our 1st attempt on Cotopaxi was on January 5, 2006. DeeDee and I woke up at 12:15am. We started to climb at 1:30am. Socked in clouds; poor visibility; 1.5 feet of new snow overnight meant avalanche risk. We decided to turn around at 5255 meters (17,241 feet) at 4:04am. Back at the Jose Ribas hut at 4:56am. Went to sleep from 5:00am 'til 9:00am. Defeated by conditions, we went down to Hosteria La Estacion to rest overnight.
Our 2nd attempt on Cotopaxi was on January 7, 2006. Woke up at midnight. Started climbing exactly at 1:00am. Got to the ice wall near the Yanasacha before dawn. Waited for daylight to tackle the crux of the route (a small 50 degree step) by the bergshrund. Summited at 7:40am. Stayed 15 minutes at Cotopaxi's summit. Back at the hut by 9:53am (~ 9 hrs roundtrip). Then, we drove down to Aloasi for much-needed rest at Hosteria La Estacion.
Made a quick ascent and descent of the mountain in beautiful weather. The climb took 6 hours round trip from the refugio. Beautiful sunrise on the summit!
The lower glacier was dry with no snow cover. On descent we experienced a "solar oven" trapped in a low cloud with the brilliant sun above the sun light was double reflected and it warmed up beyond belief!
Tambo Paxi (the lower hut) is a great place to acclimatize
Alpine grade PD (50 degrees, + 1100m), free climb following a Tyrolean party, icy rain during the night and good weather in the morning.
When we reached back Refugio Jose Ribas at 10:30 am, we were still ice-covered due to the night icy-rain !
Turned around at 19,000 due to partners illness. Still a great time on a fantastic mountain.
A wonderful sustained climb in beautiful weather. As per photos cotopaxi turned pink beneath our plastics at about 5600m. We summited around 7am with no wind and looking at Chimbo and Antisana. Good snow meant we were down in just under 2 hours.
Went there with PO and Benoît, also from France. After a freezing night in the refugio, we started to climb at 3 O clock and had to stop after 3 hours because of a heavy snow storm. We did not have enough time to wait a while in order to attempt the summit on more time... I'll have to get back there !
Strated at 0100
Summited at 0630
Nice weather, but windy
Clear view of all other equatorian summits
Some fresh snow just below the summit
Was turned back 200 m below the summit due to rediculously strong winds. Consistant 40-50 mph but gusting to probably 70mph. Very difficult to stand much less climb into it.
After a very short night of about 3 hours, we started at 0:30 in the night. The ascent was very steep so we needed about 8 hours to make it to the summit, but we had some really nice views on the lights of Quito in the night. We reached the top at about 8:30 in the morning.
Very tough climb in terms of steepness. use a good guide from a reputable company that is asegium certified.
Left Quito at 8 pm, drove in the back way (didn't have to pay park entrance!), hiked straight from the trailhead to the summit without "sleeping" at the refugio. The fog broke as we passed Yanasacha and left us with stunning views from the summit. -5 C. sustained temps, no wind. Summited just before 8:00 am. Well-consolidated snow softened as we descended, but not dangerously.
Very nice climb sustained and friendly.
Colder than I expected, but no problems.
We left around 1am and reached the summit for sunrise after 5 hours. The route was well marked since it hadn't snowed for a few days. We crossed the ladder over the final crevasse and used it going down as well even through there was a snow bridge just 20 feet away. The summit crater is an amazing sight.
Photos and Trip Report
Left the hut at 0100 and summited around 0800. I had to go pee at 2100 on the night before the climb and saw the clear sky and moon lit glacier! When we awoke it was not too cold (about 20f degrees I would guess) and calm. It got windy towards the summit (go figure) and colder. I did the whole climb in two long sleve layers, only putting on my jacket at the summit and for the decent.
The ladder was out, (unless you wanted to try something like the jump in the movie Vertical Limit) so we had to traverse around the crevasse to a small snow bridge then up to the summit.
Started from the hut at 0100 and summited at 0745. Clear night but strong winds. Soft snow and wind made the climb very difficult. The clouds were wipping around on the summit. No view of the crater. Interesting route meandering through the crevasse field and seracs. Felt great to hit my personal altitude record (to be broken 3 days later on Chimborazo).
Started at 1 a.m. to the summit. Bad weather - strong winds. No view on the summit, that we reached at 7 a.m. A day, where you feel the nature and yourself.
Bad weather with no views. 60mph winds around the wind scoop just below Yanasasha on the way down. Great time though.
For my first major big summit, it was absolutely spectacular. Views were brilliant, guides amazing, the whole experience one never to forget.
Summated in an ice storm... visibility 5 metres. Somewhat disappointing. The view before the storm though made everything worthwhile.