Four teams today - two American (as one party) and two French as one party. None of us made it. One team went down due to altitude sickness, and the rest of us reached the very same crevasse I mentioned in my last log in September at about 5400 meters. Again, we tried to pick our way through it but couldnt quite do it. Had to jump a little onto a serac and climb up that to continue through the mess. The French teams watching us work on the ice decided to turn back at that point and we shortly followed. The weather was less than desireable with some wind and blowing snow, lot of rime ice. Disappointed but had a really fun time and felt great most of the way. Plus I still have a year left to finally get through that crevasse!
I vastly underestimated this peak. The objective danger and crevasse danger were both more than anyone I talked to let on. Took off from the refuge at about 12:30 and we were on the top before 6am... climbed completely by moonlight.
Was part of a great team, led by RMI guides Casey, JT, and Freddie (Ecuadoran climbing machine). Snowed all night, headed out at about 1 AM. First team out of the gate, so we had to kick steps all the way up. Our group was big, and for the size, made good overall time. Summitted in just a bit over 7 hrs. Back down in 3:10. Windy, a couple of tricky parts/crevasses, but a great climb.
Attempted to climb Cotopaxi as the third climb of my trip to Ecuador. Had to turn around at 5500 meters as I was completely out of gas and didnt think I could make it back even if I made it to the summit.
Well acclimated from Cayambe days earlier, made for an enjoyable and successful climb. Great views, very rewarding!
Great climb up the normal route. Full moon = No headlamp! Amazing route up through tropical glaciers! This was the one, beautiful sunny day we had in Ecuador. Very lucky. Only a couple of other parties on the mountain and in the hut. Great climb, don't miss this one!
Arriving at 7pm to the cottage / camping. Officially not possible to enter after 3pm and a taxi without special permit! Quite long argue at the ranger station.
Started with a friend at 1.00 am without a guide. Following other groups in the beginning to find the way. They all went to slowly so after too much waiting behind them we went into "lead" making the way through deep snow in the upper parts for all others. After 5 hours on the top - cloudy and windy. Was very easy to follow the route. One difficult part at about 5700m. On the way down taking with us an exhausted tourist who was bivouacking (freezing) at about 5700m and waiting for his mate and guide to come back from the top.
Best shots when the sun is rising over the clouds at 19,000ft!
It snowed on the days before our climb and when we arrived at Jose Ribas hut on the 13th of November. We found a lot of loose snow on some of the traverses of the normal route, so belaying was mainly mental safety... :) We had some fog and clouds during most of the ascent in the night and early morning. At least we got a few views when summiting around 7.30 a.m. because we broke through the cloud cover at app. 5.700 m.
Very nice and perfectly shaped mountain. I'm glad that we made Cotopaxi, since we got no chance on Chimborazo after that: too much snow and avalanche danger - we had to turn around on the 17th of November already at 5.250 m.
Love this Mountain, the view looking into that crater is something else...if you're reading this and haven't summitted Cotopaxi, just go there and do it!
We reached 17,700 ft (5400 m) and had to turn back at a crevasse. One team made it across and to the summit, but crossing apparently involved jumping it, vertical climbing, crossing a wood board and a very weak snow bridge that might collapse by return. Our guide said if we crossed we would be committed to descending an alternate route. Several teams tried probing for the end but had no luck. All the teams except the one summit team turned back that morning. Bizarre that we were the group to find this obstacle in worse condition than before, but I´ll be back soon hopefully.
Hard climb, coming down was harder because altitude gave me a asthmatic cough.
Great peak !
Climbed with my friend, Jonas Haag.
I bet it was more fun. Ivan Vallejo is a legend and a great person!.. He is the 7th climber out of 10 who climbed ALL 8000'ers without supplementary oxygen.
He is the only South American to do so, and the second in the whole continent after Ed Viesturs from the USA.
cold, windy and icy and a very crevassed route, the normal route had changed because of this. Summited with zero visibility and a layer of ice on me.
Met Ivan Vallejos, so that was more fun than the summit :)
I climbed Cotopaxi during a snowy storm, leading for the first time a group of three persons.
My buddy and I, who were spending the semester studying in Ecuador, made it up over the weekend with a local guide. Cotopaxi was a beautiful mountain, an easy enough climb for the beginners that we were, and a good experience with our guide. It certainly helps to live in Quito awhile in order to acclimatize.