Glad to heard the weather finally worked out for you! By the way, this is one of the US climbers from Tennessee. Met you at Central del Mundo. I finally took your advice and got a summitpost account. We flew out the morning you were going for the summit and the weather was awesome. We figured you were probably on the summit or just coming down as it was about 7am when we were flying out. good luck to you
it is the best way to spend your early morning
Climbed with Tilo and Katherine, both from Germany. I looked back down to Paulo PAROFES from time to time. He taught me a new Portuguese word “gostosa”.
The weather was perfect, clear sky. Our climb was lit by a bright half-moon which showed us our way to follow. I barely used my headlamp.
We got to the summit (5,897 m / 19,347 ft) at 6:30 am, exactly five and a half hours after leaving from the refuge. Awesome views of the crater and other mountains.
Totally happy. I summited Illiniza Sur the following day. :)
Left the refuge at 1:10 am in two rope teams, one of three and the other of two, and summited in 4 hours and 40 minutes. We were first on summit that day, right in time for the sunrise! Absolutely breathtaking!
Thanks Andre! Rob was right, and Boris as well!
You were right Rob!
I got famous at the hut because i got to know all local guides and they all knew i was the brazilian climbing solo at the third attempt hehehe
But for that time, i set up my tent around 100m far away from the refuge to do some good photos and enjoy some time alone.
At the little fun ice climbing part close to the summit, i was soloing it with my ice tools and one guide liked and took several photos of me, i wish i could find him to get that photos hehehe...
Great work Paulo! I second Rob, it does take three times to climb this mountain :-)
I told you it takes three times ...
Okay people insisted and i went up there.
Summited solo in alpine style. Camp 100m outside the refuge...
Almost frostbite on one finger, really crazy. Have to buy new gloves...
Perfect and clear day. Back in the refuge by 09:45 am.
Ah, and i did with a damn cold, my throat infected as hell...
Now have to get some rest and get better...
Bumped into Boris several times during the climb and together at the summit!
We were the last ones to the top after starting at 2am but we caught with the last group and had some spectacular views!
We tried to sleep in a jam packed refugio..not much luck, up just after midnight, out the door at 1:30 after the rush....clear starry night but wind, probably around 24 degrees with 15mph wind gusting to 40, all the way up. long beautiful slog, if we coudl have seen it (it was dark the whole way up) reached the top in just under 5 hours, then descending in the light but clouds had rolled in before sunrise, so we saw no views, but nice ice and snow bridges ..... Very fun!
Oh no, Paulo, it takes three tries to succeed, you just have to try it one more time!
That's it, i'm done with cotopaxi.
Checked the weather forecast for Cotopaxi the night before! Amazing...it said to me i d get perfect conditions at 9th and today, 10th, perfect cloudless sky until around 14:00h.
Got to the parking lot at 11am, it was snowing again...walk up to the refuge under snow again, and freezing cold...
Went to sleep with the winds singing all night long.
Woke up at 23:30h, not even got the chance of leave the refuge, worst conditions ever.
Again, nobody summited Cotopaxi today.
That's it, i'm not gonna try anymore, really pissed off....
Stoped me from reach its summit...
Had to turn back at around 5250m due to strong snowstorm...
I guess i'll have to try again!
This is an amazing mountain, we were lucky enough to get to attempt it the second time we went to the park this month. We were in clouds on the summit and lots of newer snow, but 100% worth it!
I´m starting to see a pattern emerging here, apparently this mountain simply takes three attempts to climb it. Maybe a note for the guidebooks?
After two earlier failed attempts, I finally made it. North route, solo.
This was my third time on the mountain. In 2005 our guided climb was aborted due to bad weather forecast and in February 2010 I made a bivy in the icecave at 5.300 due to an even worse storm with very strong winds during my solo attempt.
My third attempt was finally succesfull. Although there were some obstacles on the way here too.
In the night before, all climbers came back with out summiting very early in the morning. It turned out that the snowbridge over the Big Crevasse up at 5.500m had collpased the day before. After receiving some info the next day we were told to pass the Big Crevasse to the left. Still great confusion occured around the collapsed snow bridge in the middle of the night and a couple of parties decided to turn around as people seemed to fumbling around in all directions in the dark. It was rather cold queuing around on the steep slopes.
Eventually we did find some tracks to the left and it turned out that it was no problem at all crossing the crevasse. Johan Dahlström and I summited at 07:10 and had the entire summit for ourselves.
Finally I managed to scale this fantastic mountain. The route was great, taking us zig-zaging through the amazing world of snow and ice. I loved every second of it.
This one got away.
I climbed with Boriss. A few days before, a big thunderstorm had dropped a new load of snow on Cotopaxi (the same one that caught us on Sincholagua).
On the night of the climb it was warm, just below freezing. Boriss carefully investigated the snow layers several times, and at a steep section just below 5400 m he saw that the top 30 cm or so of snow was just waiting for a trigger to set off a massive slab avelanche, so we returned. Of course I was disappointed not to summit, but it was the only possible decision, and I´ve learned a bit more about how to gage avalanche risk. To continue would be nothing but a gamble with our lives, and I don´t like those odds.
Not to bad. Nice ice finish