Couloir de Neige

Overview

This is probably the hardest gully in the area. It can be quite an undertaking with rusting and bent pitons for protection!! Bring extra pro.

Getting There

From Imlil up to Tizi Mzek and then traverse the mountains parrallel to the Ouarzane valley. Pass the Cascade d'Irhouliden (Waterfalls) continue up to the Lepiney refuge (hut).

Route Description

The first section is steep, but of no particular difficulty. At the obvious choke cross a band of rocks to the first pitch. This is a steep mixed climb, poorly protected by pitons. It is at least 5.9, possibly 5.10a. I partially dried tooled it, depending on conditions you may want to take rock boots. At the top of the first steep wall, traverse up to the right and belay near the next steep section. Pitch 2 is deceptive, the first steps are fine, but the pull over into the easier section is very awkward. Find a belay point. The next section is steep, choose whether to rope up properly, move together or go independent. We roped as my partner broke his shoulder on the second pitch.

Essential Gear

Winter = rope, pro, ice axes, crampons, helmets (good amount of stones flying down) - the works.

External Links

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Images

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