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5714 Hits
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2 Votes
Page Type:
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Route |
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Lat/Lon:
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42.70740°N / 0.03210°E |
Route Type:
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Ice Climb (couloir) |
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Time Required:
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Half a day |
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Difficulty:
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BD (bastante dificil) |
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Approach
Base of climb: Gavarnie (France)
For approach to Gavarnie you can see the page of Cirque de Gavarnie
First climb: H. Swan and H.Passet (1885)
It is one of the routes more famous of climb of the massif of Gavarnie.
Important: the recommended epoch is end of spring and providing that there are good conditions of snow.
Route Description
Time: 12h (7h to summit)
Slope: 1740 meters.
From Gavarnie (1365m) take direction to Cirque de Gavarnie. Before the bridge of Nadau take left direction (east) to Cabane de Pailla and Refuge des Espuguettes (2027m, 2h).
To the south we advance for the hillside towards the Peaks of Astazú that they find to the left of the Cirque. We will have come this way to the base of the Couloir.
The couloir Swan:
Narrow and very sloping couloir. We initiate the couloir for the rocks of the right (degree II) that can be humid avoiding this way the complicated base. Now we must try to go out to the slope of snow where it is possible. The best itinerary is for the left side since this way we avoid the rocks that are in the habit of falling down for the center. When we finish the 450 meters of the Couloir we will have come to the Col of Swan (2964m, 6h30min).
To the summit follow the ridge to the left and enjoy (3071m, 7h)
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Essential Gear
Crampons, 2 ice-axe, helmet and rope. Some python of ice,...