Awesome views, great climbing, hiking, fishing etc. Will be back
I don't know if this counts, but my wife's family owns one of the cabins at the lake and I use it regularly.
Melissa and I decided to check out Courtright, a place that's been on my list for a while. What better first climb than one with a name "Welcome to Courtright"?
I didn't read the descriptions of approach here, and tried to approach Power Dome from the 3rd/4th class descent option. First we parked in the wrong parking lot (at the end of the road), and hiked an extra 15 minutes down/up as a result until we got our bearings.. then we scrambled around on the sketchy slabs trying to get down to the creek, eventually finding the two rappels that got us to the creek, then traversed right - over 2 hours in total to figure this out, and nerves were a little shot! First climbed Wichita Lineman - fun!! The first pitch of Welcome to Courtright scared me, with some runout moves right before the belay bolts - definitely exciting. The other pitches weren't so bad as the hard moves were well protected, but it keeps you focused with some runouts on easier ground. Loved the unique solution pockets!
Camped in an amazing spot w/ view, cooking delicious dinner & enjoying the sunset with a bottle of wine. The camping @ Courtright is amazing.
On Sunday, we decided to check out Voyager Dome, and picked Butterfly (5.10a) as the first route. The first two 5.9 pitches were OK, although the rock was extremely grainy & dirty, and made it a little sketchy as a result. But that was nothing compared to the 5.10a face pitch: the first two bolts I wouldn't trust to hang my pack off of, let alone fall! The third bolt was thankfully replaced with a new one (and getting to it wasn't that bad). After going above it and not seeing where to go next (despite it being easier ground), I decided I've had enough and lowered off the good bolt w/ a bail biner, calling it quits (it's possible to rap off a set of bolts on the right). On the rappel down I collected 1 quickdraw and 1 bail biner in two separate places... clearly, bailing is a common theme for the area :)
Not a single climber seen the whole weekend. We were sad to leave this place, but had to work early the next day. Will be back!
9/18/2010 Climbed on a pleasantly warm Saturday with lisae. Had the climbing to ourselves. Led Drill Instructor (5.4), Good Deed (5.5), and Tao (5.7).
Rob and I were happy to get in some climbing before the rains. Completed my first 5.10 route. Wish I could say it was clean! Close but no cigar.
Climbed with Justin. Led the 5.7 crack at Tiger Cage, then toproped the 5.9 & 5.10 stuff nearby (to the left). Weather was looking unsettled, so we split.
Rain began shortly thereafter .. it rained all night (!) We headed down to Tollhouse Rock the next day.
Climbed with Sharon Nu this weekend. Saturday went to Tiger Cage, where she led the 5.7 crack; we toproped several lines to the left of that. Then headed over to Trapper Dome in the afternoon where I led some well-bolted friction lines: Drill Instructor (5.4) and the 5.7 to the right of it (same as last year).
Sunday we went to Power Dome's east face and I led the first 5.6 pitch of Divorce Quartz .. or so I thought. Couldn't see the bolts on the way up and ended up a bit too far left. 3 pieces of gear in ~50m =:-O Still fun.. headed to Tiger Wall afterwards so Sharon could TR Hungry Tiger (5.10b).
Beautiful weather (low 80's), a bit chilly at night.
Date Climbed: 26-July-2007
Climbed with Jeannine and Blaine Harmon. Saturday Blaine set us up a toprope on the Tiger Cage to do a 5.7 and 5.9 (Tiger Tiers ?), and a 5.10b crack on the Tiger Wall (Hungry Tiger, I think). I belayed him while he led a pretty serious looking 5.11c crack (Tiger By The Tail ?)
Sunday we went to Trapper Dome and I led Drill Instructor (5.4), a 5.7 to the right of it (don't know the name) and Tao (5.7) - fun area ! Nice to be able to soak my feet in the reservoir at the end of the day.
Great place to spend the 4th of July! A great weekend of climbing with Luis and hanging out with Will, Christine, and Jimmy! Luis and I started off the trip by climbing A Little Nukey on Friday. Feeling good about the climb we jumped on Welcome to Courtright on Saturday. A great climb! Definitely more difficult and a bit more scary than Nukey, but more fun for sure! We ended the day by heading to Tiger Cage and we climbed This Pussy Eats You and the 5.8 next to that. Sunday was a casual day of friction on the Sex Wall over on Trapper Dome. Great weekend!!
can't wait to go back!
Nice place. So much to do. On Trapper my wife led her first!
I spent some good long chunks of time here in the early '90's. I have always enjoyed being "off the beaten track," and the potential for new routes was amazing. For the serious rock climber the Carson Kodas Arete is not to be missed. A few FA's I was lucky enough to be in on include The Gold Standard, Seamstress, By Jupiter There's Rings Around Uranus (The name is Laeger's fault,) Face of a Blue Eyed Dog. For the climber who like to hike I highly suggest a trip out to Best In The West!
I've done so little in this vast granite dreamland that it's a joke - only a few easy routes on Trapper and Marmot Rock. Can't wait to get back some day, and hope it's still as quiet as it was 10 yrs ago!
Hooked up with Michele, Nate (aka natec007), Chris and Frank for a one day outting. Chris and I paired up and started first, while the others waited for us to clear the 1st pitch anchors. I led pitches 1, 3, 5......and did the route in 5.10 Mountain Masters; quite enjoyable. Beautiful Indian summer weather....t-shirt and shorts at 8000 feet!
Another fantastic trip "a la" ksolem wrought with abrasions and pulled back muscles from some hideous move on "I Woudn't Want to Be Like You" aka "Lichen Doesn't Lie." The holiday field trip consisted of various routes from 5.9 to 5.12b visits to Power Dome, Trapper Dome, Voyager Rock and Tiger Wall. Enjoyment abound save the midnight potty trip that turned into a "oh sh!t, I'm lost" while star-gazing too far from the camp site!
Looking at my notes, we climbed Drill Instructor (5.4) and Good Deed (5.5) at Trapper Dome. "Right of Ebony" (5.8), "Little Black Sambo" (5.9), and Tiger Tiers (5.9) at Tiger Cage.
We had a great time climbing with Dave Daly. I remember doing like my 3rd, 4th, and 5th lifetime lead climbs there, and Kim got her first.
I love this place. Hanging out in TUolumne for any length of time kinda gets me down, with all the crowds and red tape. Not here!
This route is on Power Dome. The first pitch (5.8) is what the SeKi guide says it is.....classic Sierra face climbing and well protected (9 bolts). The second pitch stiffens a little to the routes overall rating as the route goes up and left. The third pitch moves around a large segmented block, peppered with chickenheads, and up to a small ledge. The fourth pitch opens up with several moves of 5.9 then backs off to 5.6, following solution pockets along the way (TriCams helpful) and eventually moves up right. The 5th pitch finishes by following a crack and water groove to the summit slabs. The route is classic and very popular. On heavy traffic days, 4 or 5 climbing parties can be spotted waiting to move to the next belay!
This 2 pitch route is found on Penstemon Dome's western side and hits just the right medium for a bolted backcountry climb. The first pitch can be climbed by heading up a 5.8 crack at the center base of the dome. After that, traverse left then right onto a ledge that ends near a left facing dihedral. The route starts 20 feet left of this dihedral. The second pitch has 7 bolts placed over a 120 foot distance to a chained anchor. Carry two ropes to rap off this route or venture above these anchors to the summit (part of another route named 'Captain America' .10a). For route details, see the SeKi guidebook.
Pat Brennen and I did this route in 2 pitches. The rock was ok but not as good as power dome. The route was very enjoyable. Power dome was a very developed wall where Voyager Rock had a more back country ambiance about it.
What a great looking wall, I climbed this4 pitch route with Pat Brennen and Tony Gough. The route is mostly face climbing with these amazing finger pockets which were grabed much like a bowling ball.