Coyote Ugly

Page Type
Route
Location:
California, United States, North America
Route Type:
Trad Climbing
Season:
Spring, Fall, Winter
Time Required:
Less than two hours
Difficulty:
5.9
Rock Difficulty:
5.9 (YDS)
Number of Pitches:
1
Grade:
I

Route Quality: 1 Votes

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Page By:
Coyote Ugly
Created On: Dec 28, 2010
Last Edited On: Dec 28, 2010

Overview

This route is one of the longer Pinnacles classics, near the scenic Bear Gulch Reservoir on a formation called Tiburcio's X. The guidebook rates it three stars.

Getting There

Start from the east side of the Monument. Park in the Bear Gulch lot, and start hiking from the Moses Spring trailhead. Take the first left, go up the Moses Spring trail and then through a tunnel. Turn right at the next junction, and then left. Do not take the trail towards the Bear Gulch Caves.

Pass the east face of The Monolith. Soon you will be at the Bear Gulch Reservoir dam. Tiburcio's X is the prominent tower to the right, with an "X" formed by diagonal cracks on its southeast face. Turn right and head up the Rim trail to the base of the route.

Route Description

Route height is 150'. Start just right of the center of the "X", and follow two bolts to the X.



(watch out for loose stuff lower on the route. Things get much more solid above the "X")

Place a piece in the crack here, and then head up and right past four more bolts.



Above the fourth bolt you will see a fifth. You may be tempted to climb up and clip it, but unless you want to do the 5.10c direct finish, traverse right to the arete onto easier ground and head up to the summit to a two-bolt anchor (plus an ancient-looking third bolt).



Descend by rappelling or downclimbing (fourth class) off the back side towards a pine tree. The fourth class route also has a single bolt, and is the easiest way to the top of Tiburcio's X for setting up topropes (remember that the route is 150' high).

Essential Gear

Six quickdraws and midsize cams to 3" (a blue camalot or its equivalent is probably sufficient).

Guidebooks

This route and others on Tiburcio's X can be found in A Climber's Guide to Pinnacles National Monument, Brad Young, 2007.

History

First ascent by David Rubine and Eric Topel, 3/1989.

External Links

Route page on Mountainproject.com






Coyote Ugly

Route
8 Images 1 Climber's Log Entries 0 Comments 0 Additions & Corrections

Geography

Routes in California

Parents

Pinnacles, Gabilan RangeRoutes