Cragaholic’s Dream, 5.10+

2nd Pitch- 55m- 5.10+/ You can make this pitch as long as you want, I ran it a full 200’ but don’t advise same. Stop at the top of the roof or at the top of the corner after the roof. It will be a hanging belay regardless and rope drag will be a factor once you turn the roof. I placed all my large gear and used exclusive off-width technique up the vertical crack. It would be easier, for a 2nd at least, to layback this section. Once under the roof, either layback up to the right end or climb the off-width with an assisted smaller hand crack upside down to reach the hand crack that allows you to pull out of it. You can place tons of gear in this section. It is no doubt also possible to slab climb out right, but unprotected. Once you pull the roof, continue up a slanting right facing corner to its top. I advise belaying here or if you are not adverse to rope drag, you can pull out onto the face out left and into the next right facing corner to set up a gear belay for a full 200' pitch.
Cragaholic’s Dream, 5.10+, 6 Pitches, Squaretop, Cochise Stronghold, Arizona, November, 2012


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