Another great route at the Garden. Solid rock, well protected, and fun, steep moves throughout the climb.
The route starts behind the Tombstone along the west side of South Gateway Rock - towards the right side of the formation. Climbs just to the right of the pale rock on South Gateway.
The start is a little dubious - there’s a long way from the ground to the first protection. The climbing is fairly easy, but given the route’s reputation for holds that break often, you can sling a horn on the way up for some protection. After clipping the first pin, work up the dihedral with great hands and feet past two more pins to the obvious crux which lies between the third and fourth bolt. Clip the fourth bolt (which protects the crux well). The trick is to work the left side and get the feet up as high as possible. Step high, and reach higher with the left had to a good two finger pocket. This is pretty solid and will let you move your feet into the huge holds on the face. From here, work up a little more and clip the fifth bolt. The sixth bolt is curiously only about 18 inches up. It’s a little loose and I was glad to have both bolts there. From the final bolt, mantle up on a small ledge. Here there is a pothole that you can threat to protect the final moves up to the anchors. Great route, must do for the area.
Quickdraws, a couple extra runners to sling horns and thread potholes, and a 60m rope.
External LinksCredibility Gap (5.9+)