Crossing ridge

Page Type
Route
Location:
Piemonte/Wallis (Monte-Rosa-group), Italy/Switzerland, Europe
Route Type:
Basic snow, glacier climb, ice climb
Time Required:
Half a day
Difficulty:
Walk up

Route Quality: 3 Votes

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Page By:
Bor
Crossing ridge
Created On: Sep 25, 2004
Last Edited On: Sep 25, 2004

Approach


You come from the Rif. Gnifetti.

You reach the hut from Punta Indren, 3260 m (cable car from Alagna), in 1,5 h via Rif. Città di Mantova (350 hm), 45 min. from Rif. Mantova, 7 h from Alagna (2420hm). In the lower part, it is a marked way (no. 5). The traverse of the glacier is not marked. From Punta Indren, You traverse the ski-run, slowly going up on the Indrenglacier till you reach the outstanding rock band above which the Mantova-hut is situated (yellow-red signs). You climb up the rock steps (fixed ropes). From the hut, you go up over the E-side of the Lysglacier to the N and at the end over rocks to the Gnifettihut.

Route Description


From Rif. Gnifetti you cross Lysglacier and come to the Lys pass, 4248m. Then you have two possibilities:
1. You can ascend on Parrotspitze directlly from Lys pass over west ridge. On the way you must climb some steep snow and ice slopes and if there is not a lot of snow you must climb in rock too.

2. The second possibility is that you cross north slopes of Parrotspitze (where the normal route to Punta Gnifetti goes) and then ascend on Sesia pass, 4229m. From here you ascend on summit of Parrotspitze iver north ridge and slopes. You must climb an ice and a snow steep slope.

You can do that route in both ways and you cross one of beautiest ridge in Europe.


Essential Gear


Rope, ice pick, crampons.

Miscellaneous Info


If you have information about this route that doesn't pertain to any of the other sections, please add it here.