Cruel Sister

Shirley leading Cruel Sister (5.10a) - Lower Gorge's superstar hand crack (Sept. 17, 2006).

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Charles

Charles - Sep 18, 2006 5:10 pm - Voted 10/10

good pitch

and a good lead!! Well done Shirley!

Cheers

Charles

rpc

rpc - Sep 18, 2006 6:13 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: good pitch

Thanks Charles.

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Sep 18, 2006 6:07 pm - Voted 10/10

Shirley

is leading the Smith 5.10s now? Dang, nice job!

rpc

rpc - Sep 18, 2006 6:13 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Shirley

Thanks man - will pass that on.

See this way I can look "badass" w/o even doing anything. Natural assumption for someone viewing this is that "if the girl is leading 5.10-, the guy must be leading 5.11's"

.....hehehheheheheheheh :)!!!!!

Diggler

Diggler - Sep 18, 2006 8:00 pm - Voted 10/10

What a rack she's got!

Did she end up using all of those monster cams? What are those- at least a couple of 3.5s, & then some larger ones as well, right? Looks like a fun climb!

rpc

rpc - Sep 18, 2006 8:45 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: What a rack she's got!

Crack takes 1 #3.5 and 1 #4 at the top. Below it takes a good mix from #0.5 to #3 Camalot (multiples in #0.75 to #2). Leave nuts at base :)
...the stress of leading your first double digit on trad might have induced Shirley to take some extras :)

Martin Cash

Martin Cash - Sep 18, 2006 9:07 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: What a rack she's got!

Did she send her first 5.10???

rpc

rpc - Sep 18, 2006 9:09 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: What a rack she's got!

No, she had to take on the last 15 feet where the crack gets nicely hand sized (for me! ...pretty OW for Shirley) to #3 Camalot :)

Diggler

Diggler - Sep 19, 2006 3:45 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: What a rack she's got!

While each climb will feel somewhat different for each person, due to (esp) height & size factors & other bodily differences, cracks are the most obvious example of "this is a 5.n climb for a person of x size, but will feel like a 5.(n+1) climb for a y-sized person."

rpc

rpc - Sep 19, 2006 4:03 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: What a rack she's got!

Definitely. #0.75-#1 Camalot = cruiser hand jams for Shirley (a true straight in crack of that size for me is largely out of reach); loose #2 to #3 Camalot = good hand jams for me (cupped hands to rattly fists for Shirley).
...BTW, I have not seen straight in jam cracks other than in UT Sandstone and at Index in WA :)

Diggler

Diggler - Sep 19, 2006 5:30 pm - Voted 10/10

Re: What a rack she's got!

After 7 (P1) in Tha Valley & Double Cross in J-Tree are 2 Cali climbs with sinker jams that I can think of off the top of my head (there are more, just can't think of them right now). She's got small hands! A #3 indicates bomber jams for me...

rpc

rpc - Sep 19, 2006 5:41 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: What a rack she's got!

#3 is the sweet spot for me as well.
Thanks for visiting Dirk.

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