A great moderate mixed route that works perfect as an introduction to the rock and style of a lot of mixed lines in Vail. First put up by David Roetzel, this well protected climb has 6 bolts that lead to some ice and two Fixe ring anchors. Whether a warm-up route or your first time on mixed, this is a fun line not to be missed!
Midroute on Cupcake.
Getting to Vail is simple. Take I-70 west, (about 100 miles if you start in Denver proper). Take the first exit to Vail, also called the E Vail exit, to access the most classic of the climbs and to reach 'Cupcake Corner'. Parking is a hassle due to access issues, and it is best to arrive early on the weekend.
As of 2007 there seem to be conflicting signs at the Pumphouse parking lot talkingt about pay. I have never had an issue here and it is best to park here, where the trail is marked clearly for ice climbers. As always, please be respectful towards other and stay on the designated ice climbers trail.
Follow the well protected crack to the left of the bolt line higher and higher. After the 5th bolt, some groveling might be in order and many holds work best as handhold.
The entire route.
Gain the ice after the 6th bolt and either run it out to the anchors, or place a screw in well bonded ice.
The upper section of the route and the ice.
A 60 meter rope will suffice on this climb. Unlike many of the clibms at Vail, you will need to bring your own draws to hang since this line is not pre-hung. A few screws might be needed on the ice, depending on how comfortable you feel.