Fun climbing complicated by a somewhat sketchy approach. Ended up being a 14 hour day with somewhere around 18 rappels to get back down to the basin.
2016-08-04 Via SE Buttress with Sam
7 pitches and 14 rappels. Led by Matt Below. We climbed The Needles the next day.
Nice hike up valley and good rock on exposed short ridge to summit.
SW Buttress - got rope stuck and had to cut it a pitch or two below the summit (off route). Rapped route on short rope. West Face ice climb. Nearly got avalanched off but ran away just in time.
Pleasant Fall day!!! We found Gully Two a little more challenging than expected, but summit we did. Great Mountain.
Climbed with Doug, as noted below.
I led pitch 1, then we simulclimbed a bit, followed by Doug leading some, then more simulclimbing, then I led a pitch, and then more simul'ing. Doug led the rest of the technical stuff. Fun finish. Started at about 6am from SR20, atop summit by 11:30, back to cars by 2:30 or so. Something like 7-9 rappels to descend, with a little downclimbing on easier terrain. Each rap was spaced almost perfectly for a single 50m rope (good, because that's all we brought !)
Weather was a little cloudy and cool, but the clouds parted as we got to the summit and Doug pointed out neighboring peaks. Great introduction to the North Cascades !
Fun climb with great views of the Liberty Group and Wine Spires. We never did see the "Tarzan Jump". Other than getting a rope stuck on one of the raps, everything went well.
A worthwhile climb on mostly solid rock. I would recommend an early start or a weekday for this route due to its recent popularity.
Very impressive looking mountain from the south. Jim and I approached it quickly and found oursleves struggling in the gully. The next two pitches over ledges and loose junk made me wonder how the rest was, but things got better with each pitch higher: a very sweet dihedral pitch, an unprotected step across a notch and the final offwidth crack and there we were on the airy summit. We rappeled the entire route including the gully and were down at the car at 6pm. What a great day, if it wasn't for the 2am arrival at PDX...
Sunny & cloudless day in the North Cascades ... lucky.
8 or so rappels without a single stuck rope ... luckier.
Back to Marblemount in time for dinner ... priceless!
Great views from the route and the summit. Somehow we missed the first 5.7 pitch out of the notch, and instead soloed the 5.2 gully to the left. Next time, I'm putting on my harness before heading up a gully!
Lots of loose and sandy rock, but the fourth pitch had some great crack climbing, and the summit pitch was fun.
With T Rashko, E Sandbo, D Reed and other SAC'ers. This peak is an excellent early season climb; later in the season (after all the snow has melted off the route) it's mostly a scramble. Watch out for rain loosened rock-fall, lower on the route the hazard can be significant. Find a rappel anchor in the gully just before the final summit. Two rappels down the W Face route bring you to ledges which can be covered in snow and which in early season we glissaded down into the upper basin.
Great day for climbing. The approach was quick, but steep. Beware of the gulleys, which send rocks down with great regularity.
Climbed with Monica Spicker.