Cutthroat Peak Climber's Log

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Jake Robinson

Jake Robinson - Jul 9, 2017 11:47 am Date Climbed: Jun 19, 2017

SE Buttress  Sucess!

Fun climbing complicated by a somewhat sketchy approach. Ended up being a 14 hour day with somewhere around 18 rappels to get back down to the basin.

Mooner

Mooner - Aug 20, 2016 3:44 pm

Up I Go

2016-08-04 Via SE Buttress with Sam

gimpilator

gimpilator - Jul 6, 2014 4:08 pm Date Climbed: Jul 4, 2014

South Buttress  Sucess!

7 pitches and 14 rappels. Led by Matt Below. We climbed The Needles the next day.

nickmech

nickmech - May 1, 2014 1:58 pm Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010

West Ridge  Sucess!

Nice hike up valley and good rock on exposed short ridge to summit.

ExcitableBoy

ExcitableBoy - Dec 27, 2010 11:31 am

Two attempts  Sucess!

SW Buttress - got rope stuck and had to cut it a pitch or two below the summit (off route). Rapped route on short rope. West Face ice climb. Nearly got avalanched off but ran away just in time.

Norman

Norman - Oct 4, 2010 9:41 pm Date Climbed: Oct 2, 2010

West Ridge, gully two  Sucess!

Pleasant Fall day!!! We found Gully Two a little more challenging than expected, but summit we did. Great Mountain.

rhyang

rhyang - Aug 31, 2006 1:51 am Date Climbed: Aug 23, 2006

South Buttress  Sucess!

Climbed with Doug, as noted below.

I led pitch 1, then we simulclimbed a bit, followed by Doug leading some, then more simulclimbing, then I led a pitch, and then more simul'ing. Doug led the rest of the technical stuff. Fun finish. Started at about 6am from SR20, atop summit by 11:30, back to cars by 2:30 or so. Something like 7-9 rappels to descend, with a little downclimbing on easier terrain. Each rap was spaced almost perfectly for a single 50m rope (good, because that's all we brought !)

Weather was a little cloudy and cool, but the clouds parted as we got to the summit and Doug pointed out neighboring peaks. Great introduction to the North Cascades !

jtostenr

jtostenr - Aug 7, 2006 3:22 pm Date Climbed: Aug 5, 2006

Route Climbed: South Buttress  Sucess!

Fun climb with great views of the Liberty Group and Wine Spires. We never did see the "Tarzan Jump". Other than getting a rope stuck on one of the raps, everything went well.

setrent - Dec 23, 2005 12:19 am

Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 2002  Sucess!

A worthwhile climb on mostly solid rock. I would recommend an early start or a weekday for this route due to its recent popularity.

hkutuk

hkutuk - Jul 27, 2005 1:53 am

Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 17, 2005  Sucess!

Very impressive looking mountain from the south. Jim and I approached it quickly and found oursleves struggling in the gully. The next two pitches over ledges and loose junk made me wonder how the rest was, but things got better with each pitch higher: a very sweet dihedral pitch, an unprotected step across a notch and the final offwidth crack and there we were on the airy summit. We rappeled the entire route including the gully and were down at the car at 6pm. What a great day, if it wasn't for the 2am arrival at PDX...

jtschanz

jtschanz - Jul 19, 2005 12:23 pm

Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: July 17, 2005  Sucess!

Sunny & cloudless day in the North Cascades ... lucky.

8 or so rappels without a single stuck rope ... luckier.

Back to Marblemount in time for dinner ... priceless!



Great views from the route and the summit. Somehow we missed the first 5.7 pitch out of the notch, and instead soloed the 5.2 gully to the left. Next time, I'm putting on my harness before heading up a gully!

Lots of loose and sandy rock, but the fourth pitch had some great crack climbing, and the summit pitch was fun.

Derek Franzen

Derek Franzen - Aug 21, 2004 11:47 am Date Climbed: Apr 25, 1982

Route Climbed: South Buttress Date Climbed: April25 and others  Sucess!

With T Rashko, E Sandbo, D Reed and other SAC'ers. This peak is an excellent early season climb; later in the season (after all the snow has melted off the route) it's mostly a scramble. Watch out for rain loosened rock-fall, lower on the route the hazard can be significant. Find a rappel anchor in the gully just before the final summit. Two rappels down the W Face route bring you to ledges which can be covered in snow and which in early season we glissaded down into the upper basin.

Moni

Moni - Nov 15, 2003 8:35 am

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: Aug 21, 1982  Sucess!

With Fred

linxweiler

linxweiler - Oct 23, 2003 3:36 pm

Route Climbed: West Ridge Date Climbed: August 3, 2003  Sucess!

Great day for climbing. The approach was quick, but steep. Beware of the gulleys, which send rocks down with great regularity.

Fred Spicker

Fred Spicker - Jul 25, 2002 5:01 pm

Route Climbed: W Ridge Date Climbed: 21 Aug 1982  Sucess!

Climbed with Monica Spicker.

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