Saw this guy from across Ants Basin a couple of times and decided I must climb the whitest of the White Clouds, and finally got up there yesterday! We approached from Slate Creek (heard varying reports on the road, but it was in really good condition for Idaho FS roads with just a bit of loose rock toward the end, totally could have taken a sedan) and had a hell of a time actually finding the Slate Creek trail. (My tips: follow the very overgrown trail past the hot springs, past the Hoodoo Mine ruins, cross the creek to the left on boards, and at the wilderness boundary sign, continue slightly to the right, following footprints until you get to a clearing where it looks like people have camped. Look for a hidden narrow trail slightly to the right, completely unmarked. Don't follow the obvious wide trail to the right from the boundary that looks like an old slate road - that goes to Hoodoo Lake. Don't stay right beside the creek, that peters out quickly. We made both these mistakes and lost a fair bit of time!)
For the peak itself, we went around the west side of Calkens Lake, up the drainage (saw mountain goats!!), and started up the incredibly steep west buttress of WCP-9, and found the goat trail that takes you to the saddle at about 10,500'. The path is NOT obvious by any means and we had to do some loose downclimbing and sidehilling to get over there after missing it initially - mark it on a map! Much easier following it than the buttress though. The north ridge to DO Lee itself was pretty simple, steep but a good climber's trail, and only a very short section of snow-free class 3 at the top. Scree-skied down the gully from the saddle for a quicker descent. Long 14+ mile 4500' day but pretty darn cool.
I had been wanting to climb this peak for a while just because of its outrageous white appearance when viewed from the surrounding area. There was no snow in the path below the summit, but traces revealed that it had just finished melting away. It was 4 hours car to summit of WCP-9, then on to DO Lee.
Josh and I climbed up via Slate Creek and the WCP9-D. O. Lee saddle. We wanted to reach WCP9 also, but were forced down by some mean looking clouds. We saw several bighorn sheep, and one Pika. Besides the dark clouds, the weather was great. Excellent views due to the lack of forest fires thus far.
We had quite a time finding the trail along Slate Creek. It is tough to locate, but a pretty solid trail once you find it. Car to car was just under 10 hours.
Thoroughly enjoyed ascending the north ridge. Mostly class 2 with a short section of scrambling near the top. Snow nearly gone from the saddle.
What a treat to return to this basin after many years; finally got to stroll along this dreamy ridgeline and float up the short scramble to the summit. A blue bird day despite the 2300 acre fire burning 36 air miles NW at Cape Horn (Halstead fire). Last night at Sapphire's camp was really smokey, but by this morning winds had moved the smoke out to yield a virtually clear day.
No snow this time, easy scramble up.
There was snow at the top of the short scramble section near the top. Had to stay higher above the cornice, which was slightly more challenging, but very do-able. Heard the cornice crashing down while heading to WCP9, which made me thankful I stayed higher. Very cool peak.
Climbed on a 5 day circuit of the northern whiteclouds
Really fun, combined with WCP-10. Sapphire lake made for a beautiful basecamp. Enjoyed the fishing after the climb.
The basin below makes for a perfect base camp for several surrounding peaks. This being the most dramatic from below. Easy hike with just a little hand to rock near the top.
From bighorn basin found goat path over to west ridge. Went around some minor cliffs, then 1,000 feet straight up west ridge. Magnificent views. Was also very windy. Came down easy north ridge and went up easy WCP-9. Then down the super fast scree slide back to the basin. Very beautiful mountain shining like a white crystal in the sky.
I agree that this is basically a class 2 hike (at least in August when there is no snow near the summit). Great views all around
Climbed Lee after WC-9. Not much class 3 on the route, I never even had to put my trekking poles away. After Lee we headed over to climb 11,272 (which was a really fun scramble). Base camped at Sapphire lake.
With Fred. Came up the west buttress on 9 to the bottom of the rock outcrop, then across to the notch between Lee and 9. No snow.
With Moni with an approach from the Ocalkens Lake side. No snow at the top of the ridge, just Class 3 rock.
Started from 4th of July TH, then over to Antz Basin and up the prominent south ridge. From the top of that I had to downclimb and make a tricky traverse over broken and steep rock past a vertical tower (west side), then up to the true summit. Deciding to avoid that difficult traverse, I went down a steep slope into the hidden valley SW of the peak. I saw a mountain goat here and he didn't bother even looking at me. Luckily I found the 1 non technical slot that got me to the valley floor on that side. I then followed that drainage to the Warm Springs trail and back over to 4th of July TH. 12 hour day.
This my favorite peak in the White Clouds and I'd wanted to climb it since the first time I saw it. My ninth and final summit of a 4 day backpacking trip, climbed the north ridge from WCP-9. Here’s a write up and some photos.
Fun scramble. Not class three until the last bit before the top.
Was here with Kevin (maintainer of this peak) about a month ago and ascended the peak on rock this time.
Combined this with a summit of WCP-9 to the North. Did WCP-9 first and then down to the saddle and up the north ridge. The snow climb at the top is a fun little rush to finish off this peak.