Dachstein Climber's Log

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Michael Graupe

Michael Graupe - Mar 14, 2006 2:28 am

Route Climbed: Steiner route Date Climbed: Summer 1986  Sucess!

Climbed the Steiner route with Heiner Micko. Spectacular, huge exposure at the Steiner Ledge. Very exhausted, missed the last cablecar and had to descend the steep, loose face below Hunerscharte.

mcc

mcc - Oct 18, 2004 4:16 pm

Route Climbed: Halstatt-Wiesberghaus-Dachstein Date Climbed: 11 May 2002  Sucess!

May is not the best time of year for this , there is a bit too much of melting snow on the way to the Wiesberghaus , so we were constantly falling into hidden holes , but fortunately next day was quite cold and the way up to the summit was stable.

The worst thing was that there are too many unexperienced climbers and they are blocking the way up , and , what is even worse , down. The storm was coming and we were forced to stay on the summit for about two hours , because some group was going really slow , even damaging our ropes with crampons.

Huberschwiller

Huberschwiller - Nov 1, 2003 3:49 am

Route Climbed: East normal Date Climbed: August 1972  Sucess!

My first important summit, a long time ago... I did'nt use the cable car. I climbed over the shoulder and used the normal route to descend.

mpa

mpa - Aug 4, 2003 7:26 am Date Climbed: Aug 3, 2003

Route Climbed: East Ridge  Sucess!

Starting at the 'Dachstein Südwandhütte' we took the ascent to 'Hunerscharte', crossed the glacier and climbed on the East Ridge cableroute to the top. It was fine weather but very crowded.

Lud

Lud - Jun 13, 2003 3:47 am

Route Climbed: Johann-East Ridge-Mecklenburg Ledge-NE route Date Climbed: 2002 August  Sucess!

Staring from cablecar station walked up to Johann. After the overhang it was easyer but a long klettersteig. In the middle of the wall two climbers have been rescued just above us (dozens of small stones knocked on my helmet, blown by the helicopter).

Continued on the East ridge/Meklenburg route, summited, and after descent walked to Guttenberg Hütte on trail 674. It was 3 boring hours in hell, I do not reccomend it. Next day backed to the valley.

No ice/snow tools was needed (AUGUST!), on the south side there was no snow, on the glacier the path looked like a highway.

martin184

martin184 - Oct 26, 2002 1:17 pm

Route Climbed: Northeast wall Date Climbed: 9 July, 2002  Sucess!

From Dachsteinsuedwand cablecar station we went up to the glacier, across the snowfield past the east ridge, then to the rocky wall. The ascent was not difficult, but certain "climbers" made it dangerous due to falling stones and once even someone's rope fell on our heads (luckily covered with helmets)! At 1 p.m. we reached the summit. After a few photos of us (and two diligent ravens, occupying the top) we descended the same way and returned down to Ramsau. After one night in a camp we left the Dachstein region in the direction of Salzburg and home.

PeterCorneliusSpaeth

PeterCorneliusSpaeth - Apr 24, 2002 4:40 am

Route Climbed: South Face Munich Chimney Date Climbed: August 1993  Sucess!

Started Sunday morning 2 am in Munich and were back in Munich same day Midnight. We planned to climb the 'Steiner Route' but missed the exit from the 'Steiner Ledge' (see main page ;-) Then wanted to finalized via the direct exit but it was later the day and the final wall looked a bit too impressive. So we turned left to join the 'Steiner Route' near the 'Perhab Block' again. The 'Munich Chimney' section had only very few and old pitons in 1993. We were very late and had to climb the cable down to 'Suedwandhaus' by night. Recommendable route, you will be more or less alone in the 'Munich Chimney' section.

Peter.



PS: Take a hammer with you. It may help to cross the steep snow or ice field to reach the first length. Or grab a well shaped stone ...

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