Damnation Crack

Leading the easier chimney section midway up Damnation Crack (5.9). The technical crux happens in the first 20 or so feet (an OW but with decent stemming around it or a good lieback) but the route stays interesting all the way to the top IMHO (Apr. 22, 2006).


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hkutuk - Apr 24, 2006 6:02 pm - Voted 10/10

Crack or chminey

The bottom part looks real nice in your other pic.


rpc - Apr 24, 2006 6:30 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: Crack or chminey

Bottom part goes like hands, to OW, to hands thru. the bulge you see below me. The part where I'm at can be jammed (hands?) or chimneyed if you're tall enough. Then, there's a big ledge and a flaring chimney begins followed by an exit into some stemming followed by some hand jamming....You then top out and find yourself in Mountie heaven (4 parties on Midway; 1 party waiting on top of Jello; 1 party coming up Midway to Jello...)


mvs - May 2, 2006 8:46 am - Voted 10/10

that climb...

I found to be really hard in the first 30 feet. I never led it...too scary!


rpc - May 2, 2006 3:24 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: that climb...

Thank you for visiting & the good word. Knowing what routes you've led around here, my guess is that you simply did not get a chance to lead this one yet (next time you pop back to PNW, you'll enjoy it!).

"I found to be really hard in the first 30 feet."

I agree - I thought the technical crux came after the initial nice (short!) hand section about 15-20 feet above ground. Wide section (~#4 Camalot/#5 Friend) and felt just slightly overhanging. I also thought the chimney (above me) was spicey (outwardly flaring) esp. with limited pro.

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