Amazing route! Topped out on Mescalito after making the route in 8 pitches. Our second pitch combined the two classic 3rd and 4th pitches for one pitch of orgasmic quality climbing! Descent down the slot canyon was sooo fun!
With Megan Parish. Teamed up with Ried Marlowe and Ben. All the way to the summit. Really fun, adventurous descent. Led 1/2, 3, 5, and 8. Got darked on.
One of the best long moderate routes in Red Rocks. p10 roof was an incredible finish. We puzzled over how to exit from the huge ledge to the summit block for a while, chose something grungy up and left from p10 top... more adventure than we expected. I'd scouted the descent on a rest day a few months prior, so the walk off to the south went smoothly.
The upper pitches aren't in the same league as our P2 (P3 in the guide), which is incredible, but the whole thing is worth climbing. The night-time rappels through brush on the descent weren't my favorite thing, but this is definitely worth climbing. Trip report.
We only did the initial pitches and rapped off, getting our ropes wet in that pool at the base. Some day I'll come back with my testicles and lead Risky Business next door.
Climbed with my brother Scott. This was his first time swapping leads with me on a long trad route, and he performed very well. Dow's recommended descent is faster than the walk-off. There was a party ahead of us on the route. We reached the summit a few minutes after them, we rapped the slot canyon, they did the walk-off and we reached the car about 20 minutes ahead of them. The roof pull on pitch 10 is fun and exposed, has huge holds, and is easily protected. It was a one-move wonder and I agree with Dow when he says that pitches 3-4 offer better, more sustained climbing.
With Joe K. from Dallas. Have no idea how the tourist aspect of this route turned it into a 4 pitch boy wonder. It deserves to be climbed in whole as much as Crimson Chrysalis or any other route at Red Rocks that leads to a summit. Decent rock all the way really. My 2nd had a bit of trouble on that 10th pitch roof, but I thought nothing above the 4th pitch was any more difficult than that pitch itself. If with a client, etc. best to rope up for those last two pitches to the summit I suppose, although I would solo it no worries. The exit we chose was a unique and interesting canyoneering experience down into the south fork. Just follow the cairns, descending southwest a short distance from the summit and enter a narrow gully which turns into a narrow water worn course, dry enough in mid March. Several single rope raps off of trees get you down to the south fork. Fun terrain.