Dark Shadows, 5.8

4th Pitch- 75’- 5.8/ This is the crux pitch of the climb in my opinion. In fact the young men ahead of me on this particular day bailed back to the station, not wanting to commit to the crux move at the top of the flaring crack, a reach of sorts to exit the crack. Fortunately, they allowed me to proceed through their gear and rope. The varnished crack is fantastic climbing and what lends the short version of Dark Shadows to classic status no doubt. Towards the top, there will be a right hand reach move (can lie back through it if you would rather) that will feel quite exposed even though you should be well protected at that point. Mantle up to a nice foot ledge and traverse out right to the higher of two fixed stations.
Dark Shadows, 5.8, 12 Pitches, Mescalito, Red Rocks, NV, March, 2010


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