Robert Somoano and I climbed all 14 pitches (with 50 meter rope) of this wonderful route in 1987 as was the custom in those days. The route has some of the best, not too difficult climbing to the summit of Mescalito. The descent from the top of Mescalito (if you don't know it before hand) can be the crux. We got our rope stuck about 100 feet from the terra firma and spent a very cold night on a small ledge. Most people these days climb only the first four pitches, but the rest has some great climbing too.
the first 4 pitches, we dropped a nut and had to dive for it afterwards, loud frogs around and of course, we did get our ropes wet.
Had a great time on this route despite the crowds. Killed time at the second belay by climbing the 5.8 crack on the right to the second rap anchor. Great pitch!
Lead the first two pitches, Aaron lead the last 2.
3rd pitch is stout, the varnish is slick.
The best route that I've done at Red Rock so far. the third pitch was a bit stout for 5.7- the standard guide has it at 5.8 and I'm inclined to agree. A beautiful pitch nonetheless. Would love to go to the top.
I wish we had time to finish this route to the top, but we had to get back to Utah. The first four pitches are great fun. Easy protection up the dihedral. Keeping the ropes dry was a more difficult task.
I climbed this route in 2005 or 2006.
Climbed all 10 pitches with J. Started just after 11a, so only 2 other parties that day, both descending. The route itself was fairly straightforward, taking us 5:10 (including the 15 min wait at one of the belays for one of the parties to rap). We scrambled up and over the summit, intending to descend Cat in the Hat, but had trouble finding it from above. Ending up following some cairns that took us to a fairly new set of rap stations. This took us down a lush canyon and into the frog-laden streambed 10-15 minutes upstream from the route. Adding route corrections to Handren's description in Additions.
Super fun climb.
One of my all-time favorites!
Very fun climb for it's grade. I don't understand why more people don't go all the way to the top. The upper pitches are high quality as well, with a fun overhang on pitch 6. It would solve much of the crowding that happens on this climb, no more rapping on top of each other.
We did the first 4 pitches..some really amazing varnish to look at. great climbing.. last pitch was scary
I forget the exact date. Short but sweet. The crux is keeping your ropes dry!
Awesome climb. There was only one party on the route when we started but it soon became very crowded. 4 other parties were on the route when we were rapelling from the 4th pitch. We linked P1 and P2 with a 60M rope.
Nice climb, did it after a late start and rappelled after the fourth pitch. Pitch 1 and 2 are easily joined with a 60 meter rope. Also easily rappelled in two raps with two 60 meter ropes. Spectacular position and nice varied climbing. Great day with Parisa and Meder.
Rapped after P4, as nearly everyone else does. Every pitch was quality climbing. Faltering a bit leading the crux, I heard a shout below: "I'm falling asleep down here !"
One of my favorite routes with some fun stemming on P3. The desert varnish is super slick! I have not done the complete route to the top of mescalito, but have climbed the first four pitches on numerous ocassions. We were able to save our ropes from a soaking by rappelling the route to the right of Dark Shadows...however there are more features there for a rope to snag on.
Nice little climb. Just about enough rope to rap off the 4th pitch. Tie your knots at the end!
Went to Red Rocks over Thanskgiving a couple years back. It snowed that day and Rob and I had the canyon to ourselves. Great over-the-creek start but my hands were too cold so I only did one pitch. Looking forward to going back to see those polkadot rocks again and finish the route!