Dave Daly pausing to place...

Dave Daly pausing to place gear on 'Little Black Sambo' (5.9), Tiger Cage.

Photo taken by Morgan Brown, June 2002

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Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Mar 25, 2003 6:55 pm - Hasn't voted

When in doubt.....

......run it out!  

Dave Daly

Dave Daly - Mar 26, 2003 11:51 am - Hasn't voted

Re: When in doubt.....

Yeah....I have this strange love affair with run out climbs. I remember Morgan muttering under his breath, "When are you going to place pro?". The crack below is 5.7 but the fun begins about 20 feet above.....thin 5.9 friction with only three more bolts. Total height of the climb is 80 feet. Bob Burd remembers my appetite for running it out on Middle Cathedral's NW Face (IV, 5.7).....however, I wanted to forge into unknown territory on the third pitch (run out "Yosemite" 5.9....scary!)

Alan Ellis

Alan Ellis - Mar 26, 2003 1:22 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: When in doubt.....

What's cool is that the rope isn't even close to the crack/route which tells me the last piece of pro is waaayyy down there. Unless, of course, there is a long runner attached to it.......doubtful.

mpbro

mpbro - Apr 1, 2003 7:40 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: When in doubt.....

Actually, the amount of pro between Dave and the ground is precisely ZILCH! I think he's about 20-25 feet up at that point.



That may be the nicest 20 feet of climbing I've ever done. I described it in my trip report as, "beautiful, perfect, 5.7ish fingers-to-hand crack that starts at the ground and gently curves right to a small ledge at 25 feet."

Michele

Michele - May 20, 2003 9:23 pm - Hasn't voted

All I can say is...

Courtright looks awesome! I know where I will be going in the next few weeks!

Dave Daly

Dave Daly - Dec 17, 2003 11:14 pm - Hasn't voted

Re: That's the One!

My damn strange love affair with runouts! What should I do? Gear "stuffing" is out of the question! BTW, what did you think of it?

Viewing: 1-6 of 6