Locating The Climb
'Deer Lick' (5.10a) can be found on the south end of 'Thunderbird Wall', which is situated perpedicular from 'Claim Jumper Wall' in the central pinnacles area of Holcomb Valley. Since the route faces south, it makes for an ideal spot to receive the sun's warming rays on an autumn or spring day. Refer to Brad Singer's guide 'Hidden Gems Of The San Bernardino Mountains' on a bird's eye location of Thunderbird Wall. Upon facing the southern end, locate 'Fawnskin' (.10b)
then look 6 feet to the left. 'Deer Lick' starts under the left side of the small roof which Fawnskin shares. The start is signatured by a short hand crack.
Start by ascending the hand crack (#1 BD Camelot) with the use of positive holds above the roof. The hand crack eventually peters out to the left. Continue above to the first bolt. This bolt protects the first crux (.10a), followed by another bolt 7 feet above. Clip this bolt and continue to the right facing corner/bulge. Again, a bolt protects the second crux (technical and awkward .10a). Good right feet edges and a good right hand crimp enable one to work higher into this corner to reach a left hand crack. Crank and mantle to pass the top of the corner. Clip one last bolt on an open steep slab and friction to the anchors above (approx. 15 feet)
- Pro to #1
- A half dozen quickdraws
- 60 meter rope