Denali Climber's Log

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bruno baschung

bruno baschung - Aug 18, 2005 8:12 am

Route Climbed: west buttress Date Climbed: 22 May 1992  Sucess!

Summit reached in perfect weather conditions with a French expedition.



Having climbed all around the world, I can only say it was the most fantastic expedition I took part.



Admiring Amercia from the top is just a moment to be lived.



True, it's a bit overcrowded, but it's really another planet! We were lucky having 7 days in a row of fine weather after terrible storms causing 10 fatalities during that season. (But I strongly recommend being roped all the way, and i mean ALL the way, wether walking OR skiing! Mind about the crevasses even if you think there's no obvious danger).



Really GREAT!!!



I love Alaska!



Bruno BASCHUNG

rconstan

rconstan - Aug 10, 2005 6:51 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 15, 2005  Sucess!

After spending 5 days at 17K in foul weather, we were out of food and we had decided that tomorrow was either up or down, we had no other choice. We woke early to beautiful clear skies with calm winds and headed for the summit. We celebrated our success for about 10 minutes, taking the obligatory photos and then headed back to camp as big black clouds began to move in from the north/northwest. On our descent we heard thunder and made it back to camp just prior to the ensuing whiteout.

Andrew McKenzie

Andrew McKenzie - Jul 20, 2005 1:49 pm

Route Climbed: Washburn Date Climbed: June 7, 2005  Sucess!

Went for the summit at night, departing 17,200' at 10:30 pm. Clear but very cold, teammates were forced to turn back above the pass, but I kept going. Found myself on the summit approx. 3 am to watch the sunrise. Had the entire upper mountain to myself!! Spectacular!

thelisa

thelisa - Jun 23, 2005 6:11 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 15, 2005  Sucess!

Aidan, Jamy and I had the summit to ourselves at 02:32am. Clear skies and great views. Getting to the top was only part of the experience - we met so many people from all over the world and had a great game of frisbee at 14,200' camp.

robinmtns

robinmtns - Jun 18, 2005 4:16 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 14 June 2005  Sucess!

Three of us summited this beautiful mountain on Tuesday 6/14/05, the very last day possible with our food and fuel supplies, after many many days sitting in a tent waiting for a weather window. We totally lucked out... headed up to Denali pass in (still) lousy weather, high winds and cold temps. Felt OK at the pass, so decided to push a bit further. An hour later we climbed out of the muck into clear blue skies to the summit. Due to lousy weather lower, we virtually owned the summit this day!

mountaineer17

mountaineer17 - May 23, 2005 8:11 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 5, 2003  Sucess!

Went to sleep the night before at 2am in -40 degrees farenheit. The summit day was suprisingly easy compared to the day before, from ABC to The "eagle's nest" (camp 18,500 ft). Gotta say pig hill SUCKS!!!!

brutus of wyde

brutus of wyde - Apr 12, 2005 12:33 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May-June 1994  Sucess!

Summitted around 6 pm on 01 June 1994 with Jane Koski.

John Christie - Mar 28, 2005 6:43 pm

Route Climbed: Wonder Lake - North Side via Mckinley/Harper Glaciers Date Climbed: July 30, 1973  Sucess!

Look forward to hearing of others who have done the North route. Ours retraced Stuck's original, almost 60 years to the day, so we called it the Diamond Jubilee Expedition. 4 of us. 39 days to summit - 2 storms - lots of thrills...and many memories. Team mate Dave Carroll went back and was lost along with 3 others on South route in about 1981.

Is there a list of ascents by year/route?

GW

GW - Dec 20, 2004 7:30 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 2002  Sucess!

Summitted on beautiful day. Used Alpine Ascents Intl. guide service. Not fun but definitely challenging and adventurous. Made a great movie about our ascent.



Cheers,



Glenn

Brice Neugebauer

Brice Neugebauer - Dec 14, 2004 4:38 am

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 28 June 2004  Sucess!

Last of my fifty state high points. Excellent trip....thoughts of returning to try Foraker.

jwuite

jwuite - Oct 15, 2004 12:32 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 22 1999  Sucess!

We had a perfect 12 hr weather window for our summit attempt.

Gilbert

Gilbert - Jul 28, 2004 5:56 am

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 14 june 2004  Sucess!

Together with my friend Jan we reached the summit on 14 june 04. There where very strong winds on the summit and the summit ridge. Several times the wind knocked us down and we had to lay down on the ridge. We only stayed 1 minute on the summit because of the winds. We where the only two that summited that day.

Beautiful mountain!

Russell

Russell - Jul 24, 2004 4:11 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 5,2004  Sucess!

15 days up 2 down A great trip with 5 climbers from across the USA.Good weather conditions and good company every day on the mountain.Smoke from forest fires at 14,000 camp only dark spot of whole trip.

Samuli Mansikka

Samuli Mansikka - Jul 6, 2004 3:49 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 26th 2004  Sucess!

First summit attempt had to be cancelled 90m below the summit due to extremely strong winds on the summit ridge. Summitted in perfect weather after a couple of days of resting ang waiting for the right moment to sneak on the top.

Night temperatures in high camp were around -20 C and due to an unusually warm june the lower Kahiltna Glacier was badly crevassed when we descended.



Hint: Prepare to assemble some sort of brake system to your sled for the descent so that it does not slide on your heels. Remember to rig it reasonably so that you will not hurt yourself badly in case of a severe crevasse fall!

bobpickering

bobpickering - Jun 7, 2004 10:37 pm

Route Climbed: West Rib Date Climbed: June 19, 1995  Sucess!

Please see my trip report.

kovarpa

kovarpa - Jun 4, 2004 12:25 am

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 26, 2004  Sucess!

I had great time. Best part - 16 Ridge. Made it to the summit in 12 days, 2 days down, with all fingers and toes intact. We were pretty lucky with weather, bad weather days were our rest days anyway. I will post a trip report soon.

meepers

meepers - Dec 19, 2003 3:40 pm

Route Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: May 2003  Sucess!

Great mountain



We had bad weather and worse luck, but lived to climb another day, and will return

grynning

grynning - Oct 3, 2003 6:37 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 3 june - 21 july 2003  Sucess!

We summited on the 19th of july in breathtaking good weather after being tent bound in Genet Basin for over a week in a rare and powerful summer storm. Me and two of my friends skied down from the summit in the most beautiful sunset I have ever experienced. Success for our norwegian/swedish expedition !

mickymac1

mickymac1 - Oct 1, 2003 1:35 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 6/01

Team summitted in 12 days!

7summits

7summits - Sep 6, 2003 9:37 am

Route Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: 22 june 2003  Sucess!

the 2nd time up this beautiful mountain, this time in 11 days from Talkeetna.



See pics on the denali pages on 7summits.com

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