First summit attempt had to be cancelled 90m below the summit due to extremely strong winds on the summit ridge. Summitted in perfect weather after a couple of days of resting ang waiting for the right moment to sneak on the top.
Night temperatures in high camp were around -20 C and due to an unusually warm june the lower Kahiltna Glacier was badly crevassed when we descended.
Hint: Prepare to assemble some sort of brake system to your sled for the descent so that it does not slide on your heels. Remember to rig it reasonably so that you will not hurt yourself badly in case of a severe crevasse fall!
Please see my trip report.
I had great time. Best part - 16 Ridge. Made it to the summit in 12 days, 2 days down, with all fingers and toes intact. We were pretty lucky with weather, bad weather days were our rest days anyway. I will post a trip report soon.
We had bad weather and worse luck, but lived to climb another day, and will return
We summited on the 19th of july in breathtaking good weather after being tent bound in Genet Basin for over a week in a rare and powerful summer storm. Me and two of my friends skied down from the summit in the most beautiful sunset I have ever experienced. Success for our norwegian/swedish expedition !
Team summitted in 12 days!
the 2nd time up this beautiful mountain, this time in 11 days from Talkeetna.
See pics on the denali pages on 7summits.com
Frequent storms in early June concentrated traffic into some tight weather windows. Over 100 climbers attempted the fixed ropes in deteriorating conditions on Sunday, June 8. The parties that made it to 17,200 hunkered down until Thursday June 12 which was beautiful - warm(ish), low wind, spectacular visibility. Very good success rate on that day. We left 17,200 at 1 PM Friday and went all the way through to 7,200 base camp at 5:00 AM Saturday.
The trip of a lifetime. Ginger was the resident-mountain-hottie.
This was a real experience. First attempt at June 7th, did not work out because of real strong storm at high altitudes. We went back to Medical Camp.
At June 10th I made it, strong storm again, white out and real low temperature at the summit, my new lithium batteries where only able to take 2 pictures.
Via the West Buttress route. We were so fortunate to climb in June with great weather throughout, the 16 days were absolutely fantastic, a real experience of a lifetime. The scenery was totally amazing, far far better than you can ever imagine it could be.
Even though this is the easiest route on the mountain, it's very important to train hard and be in super shape for the climb. The sled hauling early on can be dreadful, an exhausting week pulling your sled around the glacier. A good training technique for this is to drag a tyre around at home. Once you get to 14200 ft, the route is magnificent and the ridge leading to 17k is breath taking. The earlier you get to 17k, the more days you'll have to wait for a summit opportunity. Good luck...
It took the six of us from Southern California 11 days to climb the big one in May 1983. We had superb conditions with 9 out of 11 days clear, with temperatures down to -37 F. Took 11 days RT from Kahiltna Glacier to the top and back and four days of traveling from/to Los Angeles.
There were 25 people on the mountain, but we were the only US party.
What an amazing mountain!
We have guided this peak 8 times.
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This mountain should not be underestimated, especially if it is your first big climb. The wildcard will be the weather if you are physically prepared. We were turned back at Denali Pass by 100 mph winds adn closing weather. I have many pictures on my web site at www.alanarnette.com
It took us 13 days to get up this beautiful but cold and dangerous mountain. Check out the 7 summits site for a complete tripreport and all the info you need. Also send Denali eCards.
Always rope up as there are too many hidden crevasses. Enjoy the climbing itself, don't focus on the summit only. Shield yourself from the extreme cold and you will find yourself on one of the most beautiful places on earth.