Denali Climber's Log

Viewing: 161-175 of 175
Samuli Mansikka

Samuli Mansikka - Jul 6, 2004 3:49 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 26th 2004  Sucess!

First summit attempt had to be cancelled 90m below the summit due to extremely strong winds on the summit ridge. Summitted in perfect weather after a couple of days of resting ang waiting for the right moment to sneak on the top.

Night temperatures in high camp were around -20 C and due to an unusually warm june the lower Kahiltna Glacier was badly crevassed when we descended.



Hint: Prepare to assemble some sort of brake system to your sled for the descent so that it does not slide on your heels. Remember to rig it reasonably so that you will not hurt yourself badly in case of a severe crevasse fall!

bobpickering

bobpickering - Jun 7, 2004 10:37 pm

Route Climbed: West Rib Date Climbed: June 19, 1995  Sucess!

Please see my trip report.

kovarpa

kovarpa - Jun 4, 2004 12:25 am

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 26, 2004  Sucess!

I had great time. Best part - 16 Ridge. Made it to the summit in 12 days, 2 days down, with all fingers and toes intact. We were pretty lucky with weather, bad weather days were our rest days anyway. I will post a trip report soon.

meepers

meepers - Dec 19, 2003 3:40 pm

Route Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: May 2003  Sucess!

Great mountain



We had bad weather and worse luck, but lived to climb another day, and will return

grynning

grynning - Oct 3, 2003 6:37 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 3 june - 21 july 2003  Sucess!

We summited on the 19th of july in breathtaking good weather after being tent bound in Genet Basin for over a week in a rare and powerful summer storm. Me and two of my friends skied down from the summit in the most beautiful sunset I have ever experienced. Success for our norwegian/swedish expedition !

mickymac1

mickymac1 - Oct 1, 2003 1:35 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 6/01

Team summitted in 12 days!

7summits

7summits - Sep 6, 2003 9:37 am

Route Climbed: West Butt Date Climbed: 22 june 2003  Sucess!

the 2nd time up this beautiful mountain, this time in 11 days from Talkeetna.



See pics on the denali pages on 7summits.com

dabender

dabender - Jun 16, 2003 10:04 pm

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: June 12, 2003  Sucess!

Frequent storms in early June concentrated traffic into some tight weather windows. Over 100 climbers attempted the fixed ropes in deteriorating conditions on Sunday, June 8. The parties that made it to 17,200 hunkered down until Thursday June 12 which was beautiful - warm(ish), low wind, spectacular visibility. Very good success rate on that day. We left 17,200 at 1 PM Friday and went all the way through to 7,200 base camp at 5:00 AM Saturday.

Pencil Pusher

Pencil Pusher - Mar 3, 2003 2:21 pm

Route Climbed: Up the Butt Date Climbed: June 28, 2002  Sucess!

The trip of a lifetime. Ginger was the resident-mountain-hottie.

Gernot - Jan 13, 2003 4:34 am

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: 10th June 2002  Sucess!

This was a real experience. First attempt at June 7th, did not work out because of real strong storm at high altitudes. We went back to Medical Camp.

At June 10th I made it, strong storm again, white out and real low temperature at the summit, my new lithium batteries where only able to take 2 pictures.

richardpattison

richardpattison - Nov 21, 2002 6:50 am

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: Friday 29th June 2001  Sucess!

Via the West Buttress route. We were so fortunate to climb in June with great weather throughout, the 16 days were absolutely fantastic, a real experience of a lifetime. The scenery was totally amazing, far far better than you can ever imagine it could be.



Even though this is the easiest route on the mountain, it's very important to train hard and be in super shape for the climb. The sled hauling early on can be dreadful, an exhausting week pulling your sled around the glacier. A good training technique for this is to drag a tyre around at home. Once you get to 14200 ft, the route is magnificent and the ridge leading to 17k is breath taking. The earlier you get to 17k, the more days you'll have to wait for a summit opportunity. Good luck...

asmrz

asmrz - Nov 15, 2002 9:34 pm Date Climbed: May 11, 1983

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: May 1983  Sucess!

It took the six of us from Southern California 11 days to climb the big one in May 1983. We had superb conditions with 9 out of 11 days clear, with temperatures down to -37 F. Took 11 days RT from Kahiltna Glacier to the top and back and four days of traveling from/to Los Angeles.
There were 25 people on the mountain, but we were the only US party.

Ascending Path

Ascending Path - Oct 31, 2002 2:05 pm

Route Climbed: The W. Butt Date Climbed: '97,'98, '00,'01,'02  Sucess!

What an amazing mountain!



We have guided this peak 8 times.

Please visit our website for more info:

www.theascendingpath.com



Alan Arnette

Alan Arnette - Aug 1, 2001 9:49 am

Route Climbed: West Buttress Date Climbed: July 2001  Sucess!

This mountain should not be underestimated, especially if it is your first big climb. The wildcard will be the weather if you are physically prepared. We were turned back at Denali Pass by 100 mph winds adn closing weather. I have many pictures on my web site at www.alanarnette.com

7summits

7summits - Mar 30, 2001 2:32 am

Route Climbed: Normal route Date Climbed: 16- may-2000  Sucess!

It took us 13 days to get up this beautiful but cold and dangerous mountain. Check out the 7 summits site for a complete tripreport and all the info you need. Also send Denali eCards.



Always rope up as there are too many hidden crevasses. Enjoy the climbing itself, don't focus on the summit only. Shield yourself from the extreme cold and you will find yourself on one of the most beautiful places on earth.



Keep climbing,



Harry

7 summits.com

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