Climbed it solo by the Tiefmattenjoch and complete W-ridge.
From the italian side.
Climbed the Westridge from the Rifuge d'Aosta since the Normal route over the glacier south from the West ridge is generally in poor condition.
Normally we had climbed the normal route from Rif. Aosta, but due to the warm summer conditions, this was too dangerous for loose rocks and bad snow conditions. This route is extremely beautiful but exposed at some points.
We stopped to climb on the traverse for reaching the Tiefmatten ridge, 150 m below the summit. Unfortunely the day before there was a storm and the rocks were completely covered of fresh snow....too dangerous. Some climbers before us reached the summit and came back to the Aosta refuge at 10.30 pm after 18 hours! At the end the ours was a prudential decision.
Route: Rif. Prarayer (great food) - Rif. Aosta - Dent d'Hérens
A perfect day with new views to the Matterhorn.
More images from this ascent.
Long route over different sorts of terrain. From the hut cross the glacier, go over Stokji, traverse another glacier, climb the icefall and the last glacier. From here it still is a 1000 meter climb. Average of 50 degrees, parts up to 70 degrees. Very nice and varied tour, but due to worsening conditions of the glaciers harder than stated in the guidebooks...
Partner: John Scoles
So sad I couldn't climb to the summit. But the fault was my own... I'll soon be back to reach the top.
Solo climb.Reached the summit in 5,30 hours.But unfortunately the top was in the cloud.
From Zermatt we (F and B.v.d.Doel and L.Boer NL) walked to the Schonbielhut. 5h.
1 h from the hut we made a bivac near a small glacierlake. Next day we went to the NW face (D) of the mountain. The route until the foot of the mountain is easy, but at some stages you have to make pace cause off dangerous seracs (N-face) (2.5h). The NWface itself was also pretty tricky. After 2.5 hours of dangerous climbing (40º with short steep passages 80º ) average and we reached the westridge which lead to the summitrocks. In good qualityrocks (III) its now .5 h to the summit. Perfect view all over the alps... Its not very difficult but be carefull and go fast at some stages. (total time appr.6-8h )