Dente del Cimone

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Trento, Italy, Europe
Trad Climbing
8776 ft / 2675 m
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Dente del Cimone
Created On: Dec 5, 2009
Last Edited On: Dec 5, 2009


At the Southern border of Dolomites, at the end of July and in August, the weather is often a little "strange" : even if the atmospheric pressure is high some tricky clouds (normally named as "daytime evolution") give climbers, normally in the afternoon, the opportunity to test their skills about climbing on very wet rocks ...

The Dente del Cimone, due to the fast approach and the fast descent, gives to skilled (and fast) rock climbers the chance to make a really fine route, one of the most classic of the whole range : the Langes (with the Micheluzzi variant)

The route
  • is not short : about 450m of difference in elevation, 15-16 pitches
  • is not too easy : from III up to V+ (5.8)
  • is not too much "protected" so that you can amuse the classic way of dolomite climbing
  • the rock is fantastic (with some debris in the very easy pitches)

    Getting There

    Dente del Cimone

    From San Martino di Castrozza follow the road of Passo Rolle (SS 50) till you meet the wide car parking of Col Verde & Cima Rosetta cablecars.

    Once at Col Verde station, along the path 702 in few minutes to get the debris channel coming down from the SW landslide.
    Up along it to the grassy triangle well visible from the valley.

    In the photo beside you can easy see the different parts of the route

    the route

    The first part starts very easy along a ramp that near its ending has some short exposed slabs (a little more difficult) giving access to a grassy ramp
    (3-4 pitches : II - III - passages of IV)

    Along the grassy ramp (very easy) to get the dihedral of Micheluzzi variant
    The key passage

    This is the difficult part of the route, on fantastic rock in an amusing dihedral that leads to a small notch
    (in case of fine weather some rappels could lead you back to the base to repeat it ...)
    (3 pitches : V, V+)

    A walk up allows to get, on the left, the base of a yellow wall, climb it to get the ridge

    Follow the ridge and along a channel get a notch.
    (3 pitches : easy II-III)

    Climb the upper wall to get a chimney then another wall and, through a hole in the rock (bus del sorz = mouse hole) get the ridge
    (2 pitches : IV+)

    Follow at best the ups and down of the ridge till the summit
    (3 or 4 pitches : III-IV)
    On the ridge

    Along a path back to Col Verde

    required gear

    4-6 carabiniers
    50 m rope
    some bindings for the belays

    an umbrella for the descent if it rains ...


    see main page of pale di San Martino

    no need to spend the night in the refuge