Devil's Castle is a dark, rugged peak that rises above Cecret Lake in Albion Basin high above Alta Ski Resort. Albion Basin is a beautiful place and Devil's Castle provides the ultimate backdrop. The rock of Devil's Castle is of high quality and is surpassed only by the rock quality of Lone Peak. It is a short hike to the base of Devil's Castle, but the easiest climbing route requires Class 5.2-5.5 YDS moves with exposure.
Albion Basin is located at the end of the road up Little Cottonwood Canyon and begins at the town of Alta.. Follow the paved road 8.5 miles passing both Snowbird and Alta ski resorts along the way. After 8.5 miles, the pavement ends with a dirt road continuing 2.5 more miles to Albion Basin trailhead.
The road into Albion Basin is generally open from mid-June through the first substantial snowfall each Fall. The road is restricted. On weekends a limited number of vehicles are allowed up the road. The speed limit is 15 MPH to limit environmental impact. Parking is limited to designated areas only and is enforced. There are no fees for entering or parking.
The approach follows the Cecret Lake trail which leaves from the Albion Basin campground at 9400 ft. Hike the 3/4 mile trail to Cecret Lake. Continue around the east side of the lake. A faint trail with switchbacks climbs 800 ft to the saddle between Devil's Castle and Sugarloaf Peak (west.) Turn left (east) at the saddle and follow the trail which quickly becomes knife-edge. The route is faint in places, but generally stays to the south side of the ridge within 20 ft of the ridge. After several hundred yards, climb a small (80 ft) chute back to the ridge and the knife edge. The low Class 5 climbing begins here and continues to the first summit where most people stop. Continue along the ridge to the other 2 summits. Good routefinding skills are required to keep this low Class 5 climbing. Upon reaching the 3rd summit one may continue east along the ridge and decend back into Albion Basin to return the same way. This scramble is only for those who are confident and their abilities and caution should be taken with some loose rock on the scramble.
Snow remains in the basin year-round. Depending upon the prior year's snowpack, the trail is usually clear by mid to late June.
Camping is allowed at the Albion Basin campground. There is a fee for camping in one of the 26 designated spots. Call 1-877-444-6777 for reservations. Sites are also available on a first-come, first-served basis.
Devil's Castle can also be approached by traversing from the top of the tram at Snowbird Ski Resort. It is about a 2 mile traverse east over the summits of Mt. Baldy and Sugarloaf peak.
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