Excellent route. It was rated 11a in our guidebook but it wasn't that hard.
Scrambled free solo up the loose rocky couloir like an idiot.
Usually climb up Collins Gulch, over Sugarloaf and Devils, then down Albion. Good views of the resort.
8/24/11 East to West with Matt
6/30/14 Devil's to South Thunder
08/24/2011 With Jacob Moon
07/24/2010 3 AM
08/01/2008 West to East all summits with Justin Anderson
07/25/2008 East to West with Scott Wesemann
07/19/2007 with Justin Anderson, 4:20 AM start from the car at Albion Basin campground. Traversed the full Castle East to West, then hiked up to Sugarloaf and back down to cecret Lake and the car. We saw 3 moose: one bull and later, a mother and calf.
08/05/2006 with Joe Bullough and Justin Anderson. Hiked the full Castle from East to West as a Bullion Divide bonus, then we continued to Sugarloaf and the full Divide route to White Baldy.
Very fun! Despite the rock looking crumbly, it is very easy to climb and like many other large alpine climbs, you can usually find an easier route if you feel uncomfortable with the exposure.
08/16/06 Took Kim to all three towers and down Albion Basin
08/28/20 All three towers and down Albion Basin
07/17/21: Catherine Pass along the ridge across Devils with Broc and Jenny
I climbed this 3 times via 3 routes in the summer of 2011. It's some of my favorite rock climbing in the Wasatch. Big, dark, adventurous... What's not to love?
Here are links to my TRs (with pics) on my blog:
Black Streak (5.10c, 6 pitches)
Horns of Satan (5.10c, 8 pitches)
Portable Darkness (5.9+, 6 pitches)
I'll definitely be back to climb the rest of the routes.
Sometime in August of 07
6/27/2007 Did Sugarloaf first and then Devil's Castle. With lesdubois.
6/30/2001 Did American Fork Twin Peaks, Hidden Peak, Baldy, Sugarloaf, Devil's Castle, and 10864. With MM.
Very enjoyable and not as difficult as it might seem. Some parts of climbing required some concentration but were easy enough. It was good to meet BigNick and chat on top.
fun and easy :)
Did this today and met Madsjim and Madjohnbo near the Sugarloaf/DC saddle. They led the climb, I followed. I took a slightly different route to the 2nd summit and attained the ridge early and traversed to the mailbox. Signed the register, had a drink and on to the third. Great weather made for a pleasent half day hike. This makes #4 for these peaks.
Climbed via the Black Streak. This route was originally rated 5.11a but has been appropriately down graded to 5.10. I have also climbed Devil's Castle as a day hike. Offers some of the best view in the area.
We delayed a trip to Colorado due to weather, so our consolation was climbing this couloir and one on the Pfeifferhorn the day before. This one was a good, fun, steep snow climb with a bit of rock scrambling thrown in.
I've also done the standard scrambling route in the summer, which is a great, quick climb (can be done in under 2 hours roundtrip, definitely).
Cool knife ridge. I think it is probably closer to 3rd/4th class in difficulty, but this hike has some exciting exposure.
One of the couple peaks that I did in '05. Just started out hiking when I did this one and my love for scrambling kept growing.
Did it again this year '08 but can't remember the exact date. Hiked it after work, to enjoy the sunset on the summit.
Usually do it as a traverse, a few times summit only.
Climbed with Matthew Van Horn, doing all three summits East to West. This is an excellent scramble, giving you the best the Wasatch has to offer. I think it is harder to go East to West, because the down climbing is much more difficult. (See trip report)