Climbed with Brian F. Sight tubes approach woulda been fine...had we stayed on the route. I did the whale move to get into the 1st pitch chimney. I pulled over expecting room to turn - dang that thing was narrow :) Brian missed the first placement on Cussin Crack and wound up placing nothing - lesson learned about that first placement :) Durrance Crack seemed easier than expected but still 5.7ish. Took the Bailey Direct finish - my favorite pitch. Rapped the route. Perfect wheather window. Saw bigwally at the base heading off to do a project with an 800 pound big-wall bag. Drove straight through from Spokane then back - brutal.
First climbed Devil's Tower on Soler in 1995.
First climbed Devils Tower with Big Wally in 1981.He was a wonderful climber then and one now
Frank Sanders and I headed up Durrance on a gloriously sunny afternoon for my first attempt at reaching the top. Despite my lack of experience and anything like understanding, we reached our destination about three and a half hours later for an awesome sunset! Just like childbirth, it was an experience rich and rewarding, full of a sense of accomplishment and elation. Thank you Frank! Could only have been better, and that not by much, if we had brought the drums along.
We had a great weather day and the climb was great. We summited ia Durrance.
Rappelled off in the dark and rain....
Climbed this in the fall of 1996. We did the Durrance Route but skipped the last pitch and finished up on the Bailey Direct variation. (150' 5.5)
Chased out of first the Canadian Rockies, then the Pacific Northwest by torrential rains, Nurse Ratchet and I arrived at the Tower. Spent a sweltering afternoon scouting the Bowling Alley approach to the Durrance route, then retired to the tent. Nurse led the bowling alley start in the dark by headlamp, then turned over the wide cracks to me. What a birthday present, and what a Monthiversary present to each other!
Fantastic, mellow climbing up through the Bailey Direct Finish landed us on top in the morning hours, with the summit to ourselves.
Other routes climbed at the tower included the first pitch of El Matador (Brutus' legspan can't handle the second pitch) and New Wave, led in superb style by Nurse Ratchet.
So glad we made the detour!
Frank, it was great to meet you at the base of New Wave, and THANK YOU SO MUCH for your offer of hospitality. We definitely would have stopped by to visit and/or camp, but the road beckoned us and we followed, to out next stop, City of Rocks. Thanks again, and see you in the mountains!
Good time on a route that's loads of fun. Andy of TowerGuides.com was great.
Heidi arrived from Boston, about 11 this morning. We spent the day climbing various routes, and then turned our energies towards reaching the Tower Top about 6 this evening. We arrived at the summit as the sun set and the stars started screaming. Descending by headlamp, we returned to this Lodge in time for a midnight dinner !!! A Wonderful way to start a week of climbing together !! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
Climbed to day with my neighbor, Justin. It was his 1st time to the Tower Top, on only his 3rd day of climbing !! He is surely TRUE ROCKSTAR Quality !! Friends from Rapid City were doing single pitches on the NW corner. We were the ONLY folks on this Tower. Could only have been Better to share it with YOU. BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS !
After spending 3 successive nights in the car, the 2nd two stuck in a blizzard in Sundance's Interstate rest area, local tower aficionado Frank Sanders' Devils Tower Lodge was a paradise. We topped out after climbing Bon Homme Var which included a mixed Alpine approach, falling ice and wet cracks. Quite an experience. Thanks for the extra cams Frank!
It has been a cold and snowy winter, so far...But today brought sunshine with temps in the 50"s !!! Went up on the Durrance Route with friend Mike from California (his first time on the Tower) and local friend L.L. Beautiful weather, dry cracks and sticky rock characterized our climbing. We were joined, on the Tower, by climbers from South Dakota, who were climbing on Walt Bailey Memorial and Bon Homme. Could only have been better if you were with us to share the JOY !! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
Climbing Devils tower on Memorial Day weekend via Durrance route is the closest thing to a multipitch climbing gym simulator I could imagine. I had conversations with 4 seperate parties on one of the rappels. 5 am start, we were 3 in line behind a party of 3, 2 of whom had never climbed a multipitch before. Sheesh.
started off on a classic 5.7 and topped out in time to see a wonderful sunset. hung out until dark and rapped under a full moon.
Well, we even climbed on Turkey Day, which means that we've gotten 15 days of climbing in November...Quanlity days; some to the Tower Top, some working on our project route, some top-roping with friends and some simply replacing anchors and making the climbing process Safer...It could only have been better if You'd been here !!!....but now its time to cut and run west; Kristine returns west to San Francisco and I'm heading further west to Thailand...but I'm certain that there will be some fine Tower climbing days in December.....we'll keep Ya posted !! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
Oh did Kristine and I learn a lesson today !!! "You need to wait for the other shoe to drop"!!!... After a day and night of snow, which accumulated a half a foot or so, temps roared up into the 40's, so we ventured up onto the Deadly Durrance Route. Even with snow on the ledges and a fine mixture of ice and water in the cracks, all went well...until...well...we were engulfed by a cold cloud that blotted out the sun, whipped the wind and dropped the temp 15+ degrees. We beat an efficient retreat from one pitch below the summit, right down into the hot tub !!....Tomorrow Will Be Another Day !!!! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
A second consecutive day with two summits(!!), for Kristine and Frank. We climbed to the top via Soler and Walt Bailey. Today's climbs seemed so much smoother than the Offwidth of Weissner and El Cracko yesterday. When we went to sign the log, the sunset that awaited us was awesome. A beautiful day on the rock... BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS!
We scored a fine, warm day between snow storms. It was Kristine's first time to summit TWICE in a day. We did El Cracko Diablo and the Extended Weissner; a fine pair of 5.8's !!...and we had the rock to ourselves !!!!
BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS !!
several routes climbed/attempted. tulgey wood, hollywood and vine, belle fourche buttress, mccarthy west face free var, walt bailey, dump watt, patent pending, broken tree, new wave, and el matador.
a 45-footer on belle fourche buttress was interesting, to say the least!
On June 6, '06, I finally realized my 34-year dream of standing on top of the Devil's Tower. Frank Sanders guided me up Hollywood and Vine to the top, just in time to watch the sunset, and we went down in the light of the nearly-full moon, making it the biggest event of my entire life! Thank you, Frank, for a dream-come-true!