led the second pitch of El Cracko then shot up to the top and rapped off, I'll bring water next time!
snowflake - Jun 27, 2008 8:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 1987
Durrance
First rockclimb ever. A great introduction to what has been a fun hobby.
spotly - May 11, 2008 7:27 pm Date Climbed: Apr 18, 2008
Durrance
Climbed with Brian F. Sight tubes approach woulda been fine...had we stayed on the route. I did the whale move to get into the 1st pitch chimney. I pulled over expecting room to turn - dang that thing was narrow :) Brian missed the first placement on Cussin Crack and wound up placing nothing - lesson learned about that first placement :) Durrance Crack seemed easier than expected but still 5.7ish. Took the Bailey Direct finish - my favorite pitch. Rapped the route. Perfect wheather window. Saw bigwally at the base heading off to do a project with an 800 pound big-wall bag. Drove straight through from Spokane then back - brutal.
First climbed Devils Tower with Big Wally in 1981.He was a wonderful climber then and one now
07baja - Oct 23, 2007 11:48 am Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2007
Joy!!!
Frank Sanders and I headed up Durrance on a gloriously sunny afternoon for my first attempt at reaching the top. Despite my lack of experience and anything like understanding, we reached our destination about three and a half hours later for an awesome sunset! Just like childbirth, it was an experience rich and rewarding, full of a sense of accomplishment and elation. Thank you Frank! Could only have been better, and that not by much, if we had brought the drums along.
RModelli - Oct 4, 2007 7:28 am Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2007
great climb!
We had a great weather day and the climb was great. We summited ia Durrance.
Rappelled off in the dark and rain....
Perfect!
Climbed this in the fall of 1996. We did the Durrance Route but skipped the last pitch and finished up on the Bailey Direct variation. (150' 5.5)
brutus of wyde - Sep 12, 2007 12:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2007
Honeymoon Road Trip
Chased out of first the Canadian Rockies, then the Pacific Northwest by torrential rains, Nurse Ratchet and I arrived at the Tower. Spent a sweltering afternoon scouting the Bowling Alley approach to the Durrance route, then retired to the tent. Nurse led the bowling alley start in the dark by headlamp, then turned over the wide cracks to me. What a birthday present, and what a Monthiversary present to each other!
Fantastic, mellow climbing up through the Bailey Direct Finish landed us on top in the morning hours, with the summit to ourselves.
Other routes climbed at the tower included the first pitch of El Matador (Brutus' legspan can't handle the second pitch) and New Wave, led in superb style by Nurse Ratchet.
So glad we made the detour!
Frank, it was great to meet you at the base of New Wave, and THANK YOU SO MUCH for your offer of hospitality. We definitely would have stopped by to visit and/or camp, but the road beckoned us and we followed, to out next stop, City of Rocks. Thanks again, and see you in the mountains!
Brutus
deungsan - Aug 2, 2007 10:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
Durrance Route
Good time on a route that's loads of fun. Andy of TowerGuides.com was great.
bigwally - May 23, 2007 1:16 am Date Climbed: May 17, 2007
Sunset on Devils Tower
Heidi arrived from Boston, about 11 this morning. We spent the day climbing various routes, and then turned our energies towards reaching the Tower Top about 6 this evening. We arrived at the summit as the sun set and the stars started screaming. Descending by headlamp, we returned to this Lodge in time for a midnight dinner !!! A Wonderful way to start a week of climbing together !! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
bigwally - Apr 23, 2007 10:17 am Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2007
April is Coming on Strong
Climbed to day with my neighbor, Justin. It was his 1st time to the Tower Top, on only his 3rd day of climbing !! He is surely TRUE ROCKSTAR Quality !! Friends from Rapid City were doing single pitches on the NW corner. We were the ONLY folks on this Tower. Could only have been Better to share it with YOU. BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS !
After spending 3 successive nights in the car, the 2nd two stuck in a blizzard in Sundance's Interstate rest area, local tower aficionado Frank Sanders' Devils Tower Lodge was a paradise. We topped out after climbing Bon Homme Var which included a mixed Alpine approach, falling ice and wet cracks. Quite an experience. Thanks for the extra cams Frank!
It has been a cold and snowy winter, so far...But today brought sunshine with temps in the 50"s !!! Went up on the Durrance Route with friend Mike from California (his first time on the Tower) and local friend L.L. Beautiful weather, dry cracks and sticky rock characterized our climbing. We were joined, on the Tower, by climbers from South Dakota, who were climbing on Walt Bailey Memorial and Bon Homme. Could only have been better if you were with us to share the JOY !! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
mow10 - Mar 17, 2007 7:01 am Date Climbed: May 25, 2000
Durrance
Climbing Devils tower on Memorial Day weekend via Durrance route is the closest thing to a multipitch climbing gym simulator I could imagine. I had conversations with 4 seperate parties on one of the rappels. 5 am start, we were 3 in line behind a party of 3, 2 of whom had never climbed a multipitch before. Sheesh.
started off on a classic 5.7 and topped out in time to see a wonderful sunset. hung out until dark and rapped under a full moon.
bigwally - Nov 25, 2006 11:18 pm Date Climbed: Nov 23, 2006
November Climbing at Devils Tower
Well, we even climbed on Turkey Day, which means that we've gotten 15 days of climbing in November...Quanlity days; some to the Tower Top, some working on our project route, some top-roping with friends and some simply replacing anchors and making the climbing process Safer...It could only have been better if You'd been here !!!....but now its time to cut and run west; Kristine returns west to San Francisco and I'm heading further west to Thailand...but I'm certain that there will be some fine Tower climbing days in December.....we'll keep Ya posted !! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
bigwally - Nov 11, 2006 5:00 am Date Climbed: Nov 10, 2006
November Climbing at Devils Tower
Oh did Kristine and I learn a lesson today !!! "You need to wait for the other shoe to drop"!!!... After a day and night of snow, which accumulated a half a foot or so, temps roared up into the 40's, so we ventured up onto the Deadly Durrance Route. Even with snow on the ledges and a fine mixture of ice and water in the cracks, all went well...until...well...we were engulfed by a cold cloud that blotted out the sun, whipped the wind and dropped the temp 15+ degrees. We beat an efficient retreat from one pitch below the summit, right down into the hot tub !!....Tomorrow Will Be Another Day !!!! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
bigwally - Nov 9, 2006 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2006
October Climbing at Devils Tower
A second consecutive day with two summits(!!), for Kristine and Frank. We climbed to the top via Soler and Walt Bailey. Today's climbs seemed so much smoother than the Offwidth of Weissner and El Cracko yesterday. When we went to sign the log, the sunset that awaited us was awesome. A beautiful day on the rock... BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS!
Dave S - Aug 19, 2008 6:23 pm Date Climbed: Aug 13, 2008
Durrance and othersClimbed the Durrance route, Tulgey Wood, and El Cracko Diablo with Justin Mages. Great climbing!
Rocker Paully - Jul 14, 2008 8:07 pm Date Climbed: Jul 13, 2008
via El Crackoled the second pitch of El Cracko then shot up to the top and rapped off, I'll bring water next time!
snowflake - Jun 27, 2008 8:25 pm Date Climbed: Jul 14, 1987
DurranceFirst rockclimb ever. A great introduction to what has been a fun hobby.
spotly - May 11, 2008 7:27 pm Date Climbed: Apr 18, 2008
DurranceClimbed with Brian F. Sight tubes approach woulda been fine...had we stayed on the route. I did the whale move to get into the 1st pitch chimney. I pulled over expecting room to turn - dang that thing was narrow :) Brian missed the first placement on Cussin Crack and wound up placing nothing - lesson learned about that first placement :) Durrance Crack seemed easier than expected but still 5.7ish. Took the Bailey Direct finish - my favorite pitch. Rapped the route. Perfect wheather window. Saw bigwally at the base heading off to do a project with an 800 pound big-wall bag. Drove straight through from Spokane then back - brutal.
utclimber - Jan 14, 2008 12:32 am
Close EncountersFirst climbed Devil's Tower on Soler in 1995.
Ice Man Jerry Van - Nov 12, 2007 9:34 pm Date Climbed: Aug 10, 1981
Durranc RouteFirst climbed Devils Tower with Big Wally in 1981.He was a wonderful climber then and one now
07baja - Oct 23, 2007 11:48 am Date Climbed: Oct 12, 2007
Joy!!!Frank Sanders and I headed up Durrance on a gloriously sunny afternoon for my first attempt at reaching the top. Despite my lack of experience and anything like understanding, we reached our destination about three and a half hours later for an awesome sunset! Just like childbirth, it was an experience rich and rewarding, full of a sense of accomplishment and elation. Thank you Frank! Could only have been better, and that not by much, if we had brought the drums along.
RModelli - Oct 4, 2007 7:28 am Date Climbed: Sep 29, 2007
great climb!We had a great weather day and the climb was great. We summited ia Durrance.
Rappelled off in the dark and rain....
Perfect!
hans.schenk - Sep 23, 2007 3:55 pm
Durrance RouteClimbed this in the fall of 1996. We did the Durrance Route but skipped the last pitch and finished up on the Bailey Direct variation. (150' 5.5)
brutus of wyde - Sep 12, 2007 12:28 pm Date Climbed: Aug 22, 2007
Honeymoon Road TripChased out of first the Canadian Rockies, then the Pacific Northwest by torrential rains, Nurse Ratchet and I arrived at the Tower. Spent a sweltering afternoon scouting the Bowling Alley approach to the Durrance route, then retired to the tent. Nurse led the bowling alley start in the dark by headlamp, then turned over the wide cracks to me. What a birthday present, and what a Monthiversary present to each other!
Fantastic, mellow climbing up through the Bailey Direct Finish landed us on top in the morning hours, with the summit to ourselves.
Other routes climbed at the tower included the first pitch of El Matador (Brutus' legspan can't handle the second pitch) and New Wave, led in superb style by Nurse Ratchet.
So glad we made the detour!
Frank, it was great to meet you at the base of New Wave, and THANK YOU SO MUCH for your offer of hospitality. We definitely would have stopped by to visit and/or camp, but the road beckoned us and we followed, to out next stop, City of Rocks. Thanks again, and see you in the mountains!
Brutus
deungsan - Aug 2, 2007 10:06 pm Date Climbed: Jul 28, 2007
Durrance RouteGood time on a route that's loads of fun. Andy of TowerGuides.com was great.
bigwally - May 23, 2007 1:16 am Date Climbed: May 17, 2007
Sunset on Devils TowerHeidi arrived from Boston, about 11 this morning. We spent the day climbing various routes, and then turned our energies towards reaching the Tower Top about 6 this evening. We arrived at the summit as the sun set and the stars started screaming. Descending by headlamp, we returned to this Lodge in time for a midnight dinner !!! A Wonderful way to start a week of climbing together !! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
bigwally - Apr 23, 2007 10:17 am Date Climbed: Apr 22, 2007
April is Coming on StrongClimbed to day with my neighbor, Justin. It was his 1st time to the Tower Top, on only his 3rd day of climbing !! He is surely TRUE ROCKSTAR Quality !! Friends from Rapid City were doing single pitches on the NW corner. We were the ONLY folks on this Tower. Could only have been Better to share it with YOU. BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS !
clams - Apr 1, 2007 10:44 pm Date Climbed: Apr 1, 2007
Snatched between stormsAfter spending 3 successive nights in the car, the 2nd two stuck in a blizzard in Sundance's Interstate rest area, local tower aficionado Frank Sanders' Devils Tower Lodge was a paradise. We topped out after climbing Bon Homme Var which included a mixed Alpine approach, falling ice and wet cracks. Quite an experience. Thanks for the extra cams Frank!
bigwally - Mar 18, 2007 4:32 pm
Devils Tower in MarchIt has been a cold and snowy winter, so far...But today brought sunshine with temps in the 50"s !!! Went up on the Durrance Route with friend Mike from California (his first time on the Tower) and local friend L.L. Beautiful weather, dry cracks and sticky rock characterized our climbing. We were joined, on the Tower, by climbers from South Dakota, who were climbing on Walt Bailey Memorial and Bon Homme. Could only have been better if you were with us to share the JOY !! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
mow10 - Mar 17, 2007 7:01 am Date Climbed: May 25, 2000
DurranceClimbing Devils tower on Memorial Day weekend via Durrance route is the closest thing to a multipitch climbing gym simulator I could imagine. I had conversations with 4 seperate parties on one of the rappels. 5 am start, we were 3 in line behind a party of 3, 2 of whom had never climbed a multipitch before. Sheesh.
highice - Feb 1, 2007 4:59 pm
full moon climbstarted off on a classic 5.7 and topped out in time to see a wonderful sunset. hung out until dark and rapped under a full moon.
bigwally - Nov 25, 2006 11:18 pm Date Climbed: Nov 23, 2006
November Climbing at Devils TowerWell, we even climbed on Turkey Day, which means that we've gotten 15 days of climbing in November...Quanlity days; some to the Tower Top, some working on our project route, some top-roping with friends and some simply replacing anchors and making the climbing process Safer...It could only have been better if You'd been here !!!....but now its time to cut and run west; Kristine returns west to San Francisco and I'm heading further west to Thailand...but I'm certain that there will be some fine Tower climbing days in December.....we'll keep Ya posted !! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
bigwally - Nov 11, 2006 5:00 am Date Climbed: Nov 10, 2006
November Climbing at Devils TowerOh did Kristine and I learn a lesson today !!! "You need to wait for the other shoe to drop"!!!... After a day and night of snow, which accumulated a half a foot or so, temps roared up into the 40's, so we ventured up onto the Deadly Durrance Route. Even with snow on the ledges and a fine mixture of ice and water in the cracks, all went well...until...well...we were engulfed by a cold cloud that blotted out the sun, whipped the wind and dropped the temp 15+ degrees. We beat an efficient retreat from one pitch below the summit, right down into the hot tub !!....Tomorrow Will Be Another Day !!!! BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS.
bigwally - Nov 9, 2006 10:02 pm Date Climbed: Oct 24, 2006
October Climbing at Devils TowerA second consecutive day with two summits(!!), for Kristine and Frank. We climbed to the top via Soler and Walt Bailey. Today's climbs seemed so much smoother than the Offwidth of Weissner and El Cracko yesterday. When we went to sign the log, the sunset that awaited us was awesome. A beautiful day on the rock... BLESSED ARE THOSE WHO LIVE OUT THEIR DREAMS!