Diamond Peak Climber's Log

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Derv - May 25, 2010 8:01 pm Date Climbed: May 23, 2010

Diamond Peak: Pioneer Gulch

Drove to the Pioneer Gulch trailhead with no problems...minimal snow on the road from earlier snow fall during the week. Started the hike about 7:30 AM and after about a half mile had to put on snowshoes...which remained on the rest of the day. Lots and lots of fresh snow which had not yet consolidated so the going was slow. Only one icy area on the way up the false peak where the slope was windswept and we could have used crampons. Weather conditions had deteriorated by the time we got to the top of the false peak and we could not see the summit proper nor much of the ridge that separates the two due to fog/clouds. Since Mother Nature was no longer cooperating the decision was made to head back down and try again another day.


JGHarrison - Apr 26, 2010 10:49 pm Date Climbed: Apr 25, 2010

Bluebird  Sucess!

Amazing weather. Drove to within 200 yards of the trail head (Pioneer Gulch) with a saturn (road obviously in good shape). Wonderful, easy snow climb. Beautiful hike up with lots of Nuthatches and Chickadees. Definitely pack some snowshoes or skis for the hike down in the afternoon.


Holk - Mar 21, 2010 2:48 am Date Climbed: Aug 19, 1993

South Ridge Youngin'  Sucess!

I climbed this with my dad, cousin and two older brothers when I was 8 years old. That pretty much started it for me I think and I really look forward to heading back that way in a little while for a multi-day climb.


alpinedon - Nov 22, 2009 4:12 pm

1st-8th times  Sucess!

I have climbed DP more than any other mountain, seven times successfully and one time to the south summit in an escalating storm. I have climbed it with the Obsidians, with friends and solo. I have done both the Summit Lake/PCT route and the Pioneer Gulch. My last time was with my friend Mike and when we were back on the trail, a 200'+ tree fell and landed about one hundred feet away. Scary!


rmick25 - Sep 4, 2009 3:51 pm Date Climbed: Sep 1, 2008

First snow of year  Sucess!

Great conditions on mountain. Nice and cool and the usually loose cinder was somewhat frozen allowing nice passage. Second try of Diamond after an ill-fated attempt the year before in the winter.

vancouver islander

vancouver islander - Jul 8, 2009 12:02 am Date Climbed: Jun 28, 2009

Diamond in the rough  Sucess!

The "normal" S Ridge route sounded a bit on the long side so we made our own way up a (so far) undocumented direct route from Corrigan Lake. Once on it, we could see that it was previously travelled however.

Pretty straightfoward route finding from inside our head nets as we sheltered from the hordes of voracious mozzies.

Route took us, more or less, direct to the summit from the south west from where we could look down on all those additional mozzie infested miles on the standard route that we'd missed.

Excellent day!


cascadetraveler - May 10, 2009 11:01 am Date Climbed: May 9, 2009

Spring fling on Diamond  Sucess!

Hi to all you summitposters out there. Wanted to share this mountain with you. It has been a great snow season and Diamond peak is consolidated and epic for 3,000+ feet of freeheeelin fun. I must Digress, I led a basic mountaineering class graduation climb this day. It was a great day with sun and clouds enough to keep the snow semi firm for good kick stepping. We had a strong group and were having enough fun we climbed all day. We were certainly spectators during the launch of at least ten backcountry teli skiers off the summit, good times.

RyanTaro76 - Mar 5, 2008 1:54 pm Date Climbed: Jul 21, 2000

Off-Trail Fun  Sucess!

Four of us climbed it from a trailhead on a FS road from the Oakridge side. Following the PCT we went off trail near a lake whose name escapes me and went up the ridgelines of basaltic boulders, scree and snowfields. Needless to say the lack of trail gave us a full day of hiking all to ourselves. The most Ive used maps and compasses on any Cascade outing.


mkpatrick - Nov 5, 2007 12:10 am Date Climbed: Nov 3, 2007

PCT/South Ridge  Sucess!

Summited via the PCT/Marie Lake/South Ridge Route. The route was relatively snow free, mostly just a scree slog up. We had great weather and decided to stay the night at Marie Lake. The celabratory whiskey tasted great on this cold night.


cjwhat - Sep 24, 2007 11:51 am Date Climbed: Sep 23, 2007

South Ridge  Sucess!

Took 'Road' 6010 to Summit Lake from Road 60. 6010 is way, way rough. Took 25 miutes to drive 3 miles from Summit Lake to Diamond Rockpile TH. Not a single mosquito! Freezing nights and the magical can of DEET I never use work. Freezing fog on way up, but broke above clouds at 7,500 feet. Descent was in sunshine.

Karl Helser

Karl Helser - Sep 23, 2007 8:34 pm Date Climbed: Sep 22, 2007

South Ridge...alone!  Sucess!

Got to the Rockpile Lake TH Friday night at 8:30pm. Started up the trail at 8:00am Saturday. Got to the summit at 11:20am with a 20 minute breather at the false summit. Signed the summit register and messed around a bit then headed back down the same way. Got back to the car at 1:50pm. I wish the "bushwhacking" up north on the western slopes was this clean. The cross-country up & back was awesome. It's Mount Yoran tomorrow...


calebEOC - Sep 8, 2007 7:49 pm Date Climbed: Sep 8, 2007

Pioneer Gulch  Sucess!

Did the Pioneer Gulch rockscramble, 4 hours up and 2 hours down... Winds were ferocious along the spine, had to be blowing at least 50-60mph (honestly have no idea, almost knocked me down a couple times though), made the summit almost unbearable.


BSPclimber - Aug 15, 2007 1:04 pm Date Climbed: Aug 14, 2007

South Ridge  Sucess!

Solo hike/scramble. Started from the Rockpile TH. To Marie Lake and then due N through the forest per Brian's directions, which were spot on. Hit the small lake then went slightly W of N up the boulders and scree until I reached the false summit. The traverse from there to the real summit was a blast, mostly class 2 with a few class 3 moves thrown in for fun. Literally hundreds if not thousands of butterflies from around 7800 feet all the way to the summit. Skeeters were fairly mild on the Rockpile trail and almost nonexistant after you got past the small lake. Weather was almost perfect, a little hazy and a bit warmer than I like but no complaints. Up in 4 hours, down in just under 3 hours. A very enjoyable day, recommended with enthusiasm.

Side note: Definitely bring a compass and a GPS comes in very handy to mark waypoints though the forest.


thundercloud - Mar 13, 2007 8:30 pm Date Climbed: Aug 29, 2004

South Ridge  Sucess!

Quick route on PCT from Summit Lake where we camped.


rweave - Jan 29, 2007 6:37 pm Date Climbed: Aug 1, 1991

Overnight @ Marie Lake  Sucess!

Summited with my friend Pete & his parents. We camped at Marie Lake then climbed to the summit the next day. One of three Cascade Volcanoes I climbed with Pete(RIP) during elementary school. I will cherish those memories my entire life. I am planning to return this summer, as I think I was too young to really appreciate this volcano.

Dennis Poulin

Dennis Poulin - Sep 22, 2006 9:55 pm Date Climbed: Aug 31, 2002

South Ridge  Sucess!

Nice hike through the forest and then great views from the summit ridgeline.


alexr - Jul 18, 2006 7:43 pm Date Climbed: Jul 17, 2006

corigan lake  Sucess!

we started the first two miles along corigan lake trail. From there we bushwhacked through the forest for another mile and a half. the mosquitos were terible during this section. From there we followed the south ridge up to the false summit. The climbing in this section can be pretty dangorous. the climb from the false summit to the real summit was fairly easy. from the summit i could see from Mt. McLoughlin to Mt. Hood.


cascadetraveler - Sep 12, 2005 8:56 pm

Route Climbed: pioneer gulch Date Climbed: september 11th 2005  Sucess!

We started at the trailhead at 8:00 am. We summited at 11:30 am and was back to the car by 1:30 pm. The route we had taken as well as the Corrigan lake route our the closest access to the summit. These trail heads can be reached by road 21. The routes are most popular with ski mountaineers. the southwest bowls offer up to three thousand vertical feet of skiing. The pioneer gulch trail is a 1.4 mile trail that intersects with the round the mountain trail. from here it's approx 40 degree heading through forest to reach south west ridge then a scramble up to the false summit at 8,421. At this point then you must negotiate a traverse with gendarmes along the way. then a little climb and your on the summit. The route this fine day had just recieved six inches of fresh powder from the previous days storm. The trail starts at 4,679 feet . the forest started out damp then higher up the forest wore a thin layer of frost. As we broke out above tree line we scrambled the rest of the way through boulder fields with four to six inches of snow. When we arrived at the traverse the wind had whipped up some mini cornices and created twelve inch drifts. The summit was calm and relativily warm. We did not stay long however as some threatining clouds were approaching. It was a great summit day whith a quality climb buddy. note that the route gains 4,100 ft in approx 4 miles to the summit.


cmc56789 - Aug 23, 2005 11:16 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: August 23, 2005  Sucess!

Got an early morning start on this one, and summitted about 11 AM. Pretty neat mountain with great views from Jefferson to Mcloughlin and of all the surrounding water bodies, volcanoes, and clearcuts. Pretty windy on top. Signed the new summit register, soaked in the view, and headed back to my truck and then Portland. No people or mosquitos on this one!!!


jnaleway - Aug 15, 2005 1:46 pm

Route Climbed: South Ridge Date Climbed: August 14, 2005  Sucess!

We started on the Pacific Crest Trail, that skirts near the SW corner of Summit Lake. The route up to the South Ridge off of the PCT was not very well marked. Once on top, the trail is fairly easy to the false summit and summit. We left the PCT and used a route maked by a cairn going up but found a better route coming down that is about 50 feet past the hairpin "lookout" on the PCT. That trail was marked by red tape flags, and appeared to be the best route up to the ridge. Beware. There are lots of rock cairns all over, but some of them are not the best route.

One other note - we found a very nice campground on the west shore of Summit Lake. Drive past all of the campers and keep going until you find an empty spot. Free camping and no wilderness charge. But bring a pen and piece of paper, as the wilderness permit stand was out of tags, so we had to make our own.

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